About my visit to Maheshwar (Madhya Pradesh)

Ahilya Dwar leading to Raj Wada

Front View at rajwada

       

Holkar Palace

Raj Gadde 

Sculptures on Ahilyabai's Chhatri

Maheshwari Saris

   

Maheshwar Fort

                       

Statue of Ahilyabai near entrance at Raj Wada

                       

Carvings on the panels

                                               

Carvings on the fort walls

                               

Chhatri of Vithoji

                       

Chhatri's sanctum

Ahilyeshwar Temple near Chhatri of Ahilyabai

Elephant figures on friezes of the fort walls

Stone artwork on the walls of Ahilyabai Chhatri

A holy shrine inside the fort

Ahilyabai cremation place near Mahila Ghat

Artisticaly designed windows of the fort

Baneshwar Temple in the river bed

Ek Mukhi Datta Temple nea

After completing our trip to Omkareshwar we proceeded towards Ujjain. On the way we halted at Maheshwar to see the spectacular Maheshwar fort built by the famous queen Ahilyabai Holkar. It is nearly 65 kms from Omkareshwar. Rani Ahilyabai made Maheshwar as her capital city in 1767 and ruled here till her demise in 1795. In 1818 Malhar Rao Holkar III shifted the capital back to Indore. The Rajwada is seen just opposite the fort. The simple building without any pomp and splendor reveals the austere and pious life of Rani Ahilya Bai who devoted most of her income in renovating temples and building choultries and digging wells in pilgrimage towns like Benares,Haridwar,Dwaraka, Puri, Dwaraka,Pushkar, Nasik,Pune ,Badrinath and Kanchi. More than half of her palace has been converted into a four-star hotel with traditional outlook and ultramodern facilities. The outer courtyard looks quite simple with a statue of Lord Krishna in the middle. The tall statue of Ahilyabai is seen in the inner courtyard in standing position holding a sacred Shiva Linga in her hands. In the prayer hall we saw many wooden frames on which hundreds of Shiva Lings made of earth are set up. Daily she used to do Abhishkam to thousands of these Shiva Lingas along with Brahmins praying for the welfare of her people.  We also saw many idols and sacred stones (called Bana Lingas) collected by her from the river bed of the Narmada.

 In the court hall we saw the painted pictures of the royal family members. The royal palanquin, shields and weapons used by royal personages are also displayed. The marble statue of the queen seated on a cushioned bed shows the simplicity and unassuming behavior coupled with religious devotion. She faced many calamities at a very young age losing her husband, her son and son-in-law and her own daughter, Krishna bai, who commited Sati. Yet she carried out her responsibilities as queen with utmost sincerity and dedication. The rooms on upstairs were used as royal residence and the rooms on the ground floor once  used as royal court have been converted into a museum. We did not see the portion of the palace which is now used a grand hotel.

 Later we went to see the fort which is a massive stone construction with many steps leading to a cluster of buildings on the banks of Narmada. Just at the foot of the stairs on the right side we saw the chatri or cenotaph of Vitoji Rao Holkar.  On the panels of the chhatri, we find many beautiful carvings of royal figures and caparisoned elephants. Facing the entrance of the chhatri of Vitoji  is another gateway leading to another enclosure where we can see Ahilyeshwar Shivalaya, the chhatri of Ahilyabai constructed by her daughter, Krishna Bai, in a very artistic manner with many floral motifs. It resembles a holy temple with Shiva’s shrine inside. Just near this chatri we can see Raja Rajeshwari’s temple. From the enclosure that houses two chatris another gateway leads to another flight of stairs leading to the main ghat of Maheshwar which has nearly two kms of stone-paved way with twenty eight ghats. Ahilya Bai installed many Shiva lIngas all aong the way near every ghat.  Some enclosures for ladies are set up for changing clothes after their holy dip in the river.

 Later we went by boat to see the temple of Baneshwar Mahadev built on a rock in the river by Anand Raj Paramar in fifth century. But the waters are too marshy and we were not able to reach there.

 Next we went to see the shop where the famous Maheshwari saris are sold. Rani Ahilya Bai during her reign encouraged the weavers from Malwa and Surath to produce this kind of silk and cotton sari with Zari borders for wearing by royal members. These soft and light saris come with distinctive designs of stripes, checks and floral borders in colors like grape green, magenta, purple, deep brown, golden yellow, mustard yellow, and deep pink shades. Three alternating stripes of different colors with two white stripes are woven in such a way that they can be worn from either side. The prices range from 1800 to 6000/- approximately. Mostly organic and vegetable dyes are used. Kurtas and other dress items are also available here. It is better to buy saris here as no additional tax is imposed at the place of manufacture. The Rehwa Society, an N.G.O. founded by Holkar royal family helps the weavers and working members of these centers.

 We did not have time to see Sahasrajun temple and Ek Mukhi Dutta temple near Sahasra Dhara Jalkote. One should spend at least two days here to enjoy the serene atmosphere and visit the surrounding holy shrines. Maheshwar Fort is the prime attraction where many film shootings were also done as it is an artistic marvel nestled in beautiful surroundings on the banks of the holy river, Narmada.

                                       *********************************************

23rd December, 2017                                   Somaseshu Gutala

About my visit to Omkareshwar Temple

Omkareshwar Temple

Bridge connecting the Omkareshwar island with mainland

Govindeshwar Cave

                                 

We started from Indore to Omkareshwar by taxi and we reached Omkareshwar in two and a half hours. The sight of the river Narmada with surrounding Vindhya hills and valleys makes this pilgrimage spot very much attractive and pleasant. As it was afternoon it was very hot. We went on a full moon day and so the temple path was full of crowds. Our taxi was stopped far away from the temple. The bridge leading to the temple has a long line of pilgrims. It may take many hours to reach the temple. Then we decided to go by boat to go to Omkareshwar temple which is located on an island called Mandhata or Shivapuri. Many boatmen pursued us assuring that they would provide quick darshan. Many pilgrims coming from other states are duped by these people who ask fare in very huge amounts. So one should be very cautious in dealing with these people and pandas.

 Our boat was moored at Gomukh ghat and we joined the queue almost near the steps leading to the temple. But the steps are very steep and the path is also very rough and uneven. The front hall was crowded with people and we had to keep our shoes at a place where others also had placed. Later we came to know that there was a shoe stand nearby. But the crowd was not properly regulated by temple authorities. There was a heavy rush and people were just pushed inside to have a quick glimpse of a small Shiva Lingam which was very much worn out and seen at a low level over which water is falling from a pipe incessantly. There is a natural water spring near the shrine. Just behind Shiva Lingam there is a small idol of Parvati. There are shrines for five-faced Ganapati and Annapoorna. The front hall has many high pillars with Yaksha and Yakshini figures caved on the friezes and walls. This temple was first built by Mandhata who did severe penance and Shiva appeared before him in the form of Jyothirlinga. In 11^th century the Paramara kings re-built the temple and later the Holkar kings renovated it in Nagara style with five storeys depicting different gods at every level. At the base of the temple there is a cave called Govindapada Gufa where Sri Shankaracharya met his guru Sri Govindha Vallabha . As it was very crowded we had very little time to see the temple.

Siddhanath Temple

Gauri Somnath Temple

                

Hanuman in lying position in the temple

                      

Statue of Shiva at Rajarejeshwari seva Samsthan

Mamaleshwar Temple

 We came back by steps towards Omkar Ghat and the boatman ferried us to see Mamaleshwara Temple located on the south side of the Narmada River on mainland. Both Omkareshwar and Mamaleshswar are treated as two halves of one and same Jyothirlinga.  In olden times Mamaleshwara was called Amareshwara. The temple is very old and simple in architecture and is seen in the heart of Omkareshwara town. Around the main shrine there are many small other shrines with small shiva lingams. Many devotees come here to do Parthiva Shiva Linga Pooja and Abhishekam. The verses of Shiva Mahimnam are seen inscribed on the temple walls dating back to 1063 A.D.

  To view the numerous surrounding temples and to have a holy dip at the confluence of Narmada and Kaveri Rivers, many pilgrims go around the island called Narmada Parikrama covering a distance of nearly 7 k.m. The tourism dept laid out a proper path for the convenience of pilgrims. But one has to climb steps and wallk through valleys taking proper care of their belongings from langoors on the way. All along the route called “Gita Marg” verses from the “Gita” are seen painted on wooden boards. The Parikrama starts from “Govindeshwar Gufa” and goes through Sangama where people bathe at the confluence of rivers before moving forward. One can see many ruined fortwalls, temples and archways indicating once this island was the main capital with many mansions and temples. The Rinamukteswar temple and Gauri Somath temples are seen on the way. Gauri Somnath temple was constructed by Paramaras in 15^th century. The two-metre high black granite Linga in the sanctum is quite impressive. Just near this temple one comes across Hanuman temple where Lord Hanuman is seen in lying position. Later one can see a very huge statue of Lord Shiva in meditating posture near Raja Rajeshwari Seva Samsthan. Another ancient temple seen on the way is Siddanth temple with paintings of two huge elephants at the entrance and a beautiful carving of Nandi on the hillside facing the temple. The Parikrama ends here leading to a downhill path giving you a glimpse of the suspension bridge.

Durbar Hall in Mandhata Palace

View of flowing Narmada from palace balconies

 On the banks of Narmada many old mansions and palaces are seen. The Guru Dwara and the Mandhata or Omkareshwar Palace are the prominent structures behind which the white tower of Omkareshwar temple is seen. Most of the pilgrims do not have time or patience to go inside those old buildings. In Benares also we find many old palaces and Ashrmas built on the banks of the Ganges. . A narrow lane leads from the bustling flower market at the ghat and winds up to the entrance to the palace. From the outside, the entire palace looks like a single structure, but upon entering it, one can see that it is actually a series of three large courtyards surrounded by rooms on two levels. We learnt this Mandhata Palace was built by Holkars and inside one can see the paintings and the painted Durbar Hall with three beautiful balconies from where one can have a fascinating view of Narmada with surrounding hills and temples on the slopes. At night Omkareshwar appears grand decked in new splendors with dazzling lights and dark waves of Narmada glistening with two brightly illuminated suspension bridges spanning across it. One finds tranquility and serene beauty here with cool refreshing breezes here along with ancient temples and mansions that stand as symbols of lost glory. Really one loves to come here again and again and find true peace of mind and devotion.

                    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


  28th November, 2017                                                   Somaseshu Gutala

                                

About Our Stay at Narmada Resort at Omkareshwar (Madhya Pradesh)

                       

                       

Shiva Lingas with Shiva's wall portrait in the office 

                                       

                       

Restaurant

                           

View of the town from the room

           

We booked our rooms online through Madhya Pradesh Tourism Dept web site. We went by taxi from Indore airport to Omkareshwar covering a distance of 85 km. in two and a half hours. The road is quite smooth and as our car climbed up the ghat road we had a scenic view of temples on two sides of the flowing Narmada. Narmada resort is located on a hillock quite near to the temple at a distance of one km. Hence many tourists prefer this simple budget resort with adequate facilities. At the outset the resort appeared ordinary without much colorful show and façade. The rooms may be furnished with a new colorful look and furniture.

 There are two blocks and office is located in one of the blocks. The rooms are spacious and neat with facilities like telephone, T.V. coffee/tea maker, Wifi and toilet. They could have provided some stationery items and pamphlets highlighting the importance of the neighboring temples and tourist sites. This would help pilgrims to know the rates so that they would not be cheated by the local drivers and boatmen. One should be careful as there are many monkeys loitering in the premises. The restaurant is just on an elevated level in the office building. From here one can view the distant temple peaks, old buildings and flowing Narmada River. Food items though few are quite delicious. The morning breakfast may be provided by 7.00 a.m. instead of at 8.00 to save time.

 This resort has a beautiful scenic view of temples located on the banks of Narmada flowing below. At night time the Omkareshwar temple and the Guru Dwara lit with colorful illumination present a very grand and delightful spectacle. The cantilever type bridge leading to the temple is a beautiful sight.  One can also cross by boat to visit Omkareshwar temple which is located on an island naturally shaped like “OM” the spiritual Hindu symbol. This resort located in serene surroundings with basic facilities is a nice place to relax and refresh oneself before visiting temples and enjoying a boat ride viewing old mansions on the banks of the Narmada River.

                                          ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 13th November,2017                                             Somaseshu Gutala

About our stay at Ginger Hotel in Indore (Madhya Pradesh, India)

                           

                   

 This hotel is a three-star budget hotel located on A.B. main road near Shaniwar Darpan. It is quite near to tourist sites and temples. This hotel is nearly 6.5 k.m from railway station and 13 k.m. from Devi  Ahalya Bai Holkar Air Port. The room tariff is also reasonable. The hotel is on top three floors above Shopper’s Stop complex. The staff is very disciplined and courteous in their behavior and attitude. As we went a little bit late, we were in a hurry to check in. Soon they asked our Aadhar cards as proof and took some time in completing formalities before handing over room keys.  Here PAN cards are not accepted as proof. The rooms are not so big but all facilities are provided.  It would be better if a few foldable chairs are kept for convenience of guests. Every room has a mini-fridge, A.C., LCD T.V. coffee-maker, telephone, ward robe and a desk. Some stationery articles would be better provided. Some local paintings and art works would have enriched the ambiance.

 The restaurant on the fifth floor is a very good one offering many varieties of dishes with a daily changing menu. For those who have not booked complimentary breakfast an amount of Rs.225/- per person is charged. Room service is available. The multi-cuisine restaurant “Square Meal” is open from 7.00a.m., to 11.00 p.m. In the morning coffee and tea may be provided at 6.00 a.m. instead of at 7.00 a.m. as many tourists get up early to go out and see temples around. Other additional facilities are free wifi, free parking, tech-friendly conference room, gym and laundry services. Of course there is Café Coffee Day Outlet on the ground floor to chill out. 

 When I left my mobile in the lounge and went out, the guard at the entrance promptly took it and kept it in safe custody at reception counter. This shows the attention and caring attitude of the staff towards our personal belongings. The cleaning staff, the boys at the restaurant and the staff at the reception counter are quite helpful and courteous. The motive of this hotel is to provide comfort, quality and affordability to customers. The room tariff varies between 3374/- and 4023/-  

                               *********************************************

11th November, 2017                                                                     Somaseshu Gutala

  

To a Rose (Blank Verse)

         

                             

Flora, Godess of Flowers

                                                                    ( I )

                                                                               

                       Though we know not thy whispers cool

                   We feel thy breath with sensuous zeal;

                   Thou, blushing Flora, May’s beloved child!

                   Shining like a ruby in diamond crown

                   I can’t capture thy dew-decked joy profound

                   How dost thou survive enthroned on thorny seat

                   Untouched by pain without a bleeding heart ?

                   Better there to remain caressed by gentle air

                   Than fade away crushed by our sinful hands ;

                   Thy pretty spirit will never fade but bloom again

                   Thy fragrance remains embalmed within our hearts

                   Like a star emerging from this earthly gloom

                   Like an angel soaring skywards with scented wings

                   Thy presence we ever feel in crimson light of dawn.

                                                 ( I I )

   

                 Let me touch thy vermilion visage pure

                 And sense thy wondrous beauty of God-gifted charm ;

                 Gently smelling thy sweet inspiring breath ;

                 Like a saint’s crown entwined with pricking thorns

                 Thy state remains above our destructive gaze

                 Vain fantasies won’t cheat thy sacred state ;

                 No earthly sin can spoil thee, thou offspring of God !

                 When thou fadest smiling with heavenly ease 

                 A happy dirge I sing to thy departing soul

                 As summer flies away with cuckoo’s farewell song .

                 As night spreads her dark, silent, dusky shroud

                 Ever I recall thy rosy memories of thy happy state

                 In unfading joys sparkling like thy radiant soul

                 Like rising Phoebus spreading daylight warm.

                  ________________________________

              11th November, 2017                                Somaseshu Gutala


          Note :     1)    Flora = Goddess of flowers and spring  

                           2)    happy dirge =  A funeral song with joy

                                   as the flower is the symbol of immortal love.

                           3)    Phoebus  = Sun God (Apollo)

                           4)    shroud   =  a cloth used for wrapping a dead body. 



                          

   

                          

                             

To a Jasmine (Blank Verse)

                                                             

            1 )       Amid the green slender bunch of leaves

                      Hanging with a shy drooping face

                      Like a pearl of snow with sweet incense

                      With a bounteous white swelling bosom

                      For bees to sip nectar with humming praise.

        2)          Thy elfin beauty adds beauty to beauty with grace

                      Humbly shining through maiden’s curls

                      With tipsy sighs you spy the lovely couples

                      Thrilling their hearts with spontaneous love

                      Like Venus rising from moon-lit silver seas

                      A tiny blossom dropped from heavenly peaks

                      Beauty commingled with love and bliss

                      God whispers gently through thy lovely form

                      Gleaming purity through thy dew-washed face.

        3)          So virtue shines in simple lives though short

                      May all men follow thee and live in peace

                      With simple grace chastened with joy and love

                      Let all our lives be as pure and sweet as thine

                      Thou, virgin of selfless sacrifice divine

                    Shining like a star, Thou, queen of Summer’s domain.

                             **********************************

     1st November, 2017                               Somaseshu Gutala                  

        Note : Venus = Goddess of beauty and love born from sea near the island of Cyprus.

                  

                  Virgin of selfless sacrifice = Mother Mary

              " In small proportions we just beauties see,
            And in short measures life may perfect be."

                                                                     Ben Jonson

                             

                 

WHERE AND WHEN ? (Blank Verse)

   

                     

                                                         WHERE AND WHEN ?

                                                                      (  I  )

                                     " You took your birth in south western zone

                                      You are not a part of our land:

                                      You were bred in eastern hamlets far

                                      You are not the son of our soil;

                                      You did grow up in suburban towns

                                      You speak with a different accent and tone;

                                      How can we make you a part of us?

                                      Your figure is quite different from ours

                                      Your manners and methods quite different too;

                                      Your ancestors not known, your traditions quite strange;

                                      You are an inhabitant beyond our range."

                                      They said and treated me as an intruder

                                      Their voice unfriendly with a burning touch;

                                      I felt embarrassed in this so called modern age

                                      Still we tilt  with so many dividing lines and isms :

                                      Still we have not regained our cherished vision.

                                      

                                                                           ( I  I  )

                                     The land where I was born now looks quite strange and new

                                     The language they use not much known to me;

                                     The whole town metamorphosed into a new and vast city

                                     Not a face or mansion can I notice now

                                     Even not a plant or bush to testify my place of birth;

                                     The place where I grew up too turned unknown

                                     All sites and scenes dissolved in dreamy fog;

                                     Where are my ancestors and their long withered roots?

                                     Not a trace of their history remains on sands of time ;

                                     Their estates burnt, their lands sold away long ago ;

                                     Even their names not known—a forgotten myth or dream ;

                                     I felt myself, a denizen of bygone ages dropped at once

                                     On a new planet, unrecognized and unnoticed;

                                     What am I? Dislodged, displaced like wandering gypsies

                                     I move like a struggling soul in purgatory

                                     Uncertain of its final destination and goal. 

                               

                                                  

                                                                           ( I I I )

                                     Time has transformed each and every corner

                                     New mansions and new highways with hi-tech malls

                                     My place almost now strange as strange as myself ;

                                     A new group of residents came up

                                     With new fashions, idioms and usage

                                     Ours, an old bygone disappearing stage ;

                                    Like a stranger roaming in a remote unknown land

                                    Like a shattered boat caught in the stormy ocean

                                    Like a stray animal chased by wild beasts

                                    I felt in my own land that changed in all aspects;

                                   A great sea-change in our attitudes and perspectives too –

                                   The eternal question persists “Where and When?”

                                   So many races, cultures and creeds vanished

                                   Still doubting Thomases go on with changing queries;

                                   Perhaps we may face the same question in hell or heaven

                                   Our origin, a mystery beyond our mortal vision.

                                                              ????????????????????????????  

                     24th october, 2017                                           Somaseshu Gutala