Monday, November 27, 2017

About my visit to Omkareshwar Temple



Omkareshwar Temple

Bridge connecting the Omkareshwar island with mainland





Govindeshwar Cave

                                 

We started from Indore to Omkareshwar by taxi and we reached Omkareshwar in two and a half hours. The sight of the river Narmada with surrounding Vindhya hills and valleys makes this pilgrimage spot very much attractive and pleasant. As it was afternoon it was very hot. We went on a full moon day and so the temple path was full of crowds. Our taxi was stopped far away from the temple. The bridge leading to the temple has a long line of pilgrims. It may take many hours to reach the temple. Then we decided to go by boat to go to Omkareshwar temple which is located on an island called Mandhata or Shivapuri. Many boatmen pursued us assuring that they would provide quick darshan. Many pilgrims coming from other states are duped by these people who ask fare in very huge amounts. So one should be very cautious in dealing with these people and pandas.

 Our boat was moored at Gomukh ghat and we joined the queue almost near the steps leading to the temple. But the steps are very steep and the path is also very rough and uneven. The front hall was crowded with people and we had to keep our shoes at a place where others also had placed. Later we came to know that there was a shoe stand nearby. But the crowd was not properly regulated by temple authorities. There was a heavy rush and people were just pushed inside to have a quick glimpse of a small Shiva Lingam which was very much worn out and seen at a low level over which water is falling from a pipe incessantly. There is a natural water spring near the shrine. Just behind Shiva Lingam there is a small idol of Parvati. There are shrines for five-faced Ganapati and Annapoorna. The front hall has many high pillars with Yaksha and Yakshini figures caved on the friezes and walls. This temple was first built by Mandhata who did severe penance and Shiva appeared before him in the form of Jyothirlinga. In 11th century the Paramara kings re-built the temple and later the Holkar kings renovated it in Nagara style with five storeys depicting different gods at every level. At the base of the temple there is a cave called Govindapada Gufa where Sri Shankaracharya met his guru Sri Govindha Vallabha . As it was very crowded we had very little time to see the temple.



Siddhanath Temple

Gauri Somnath Temple

                
Hanuman in lying position in the temple
                      
Statue of Shiva at Rajarejeshwari seva Samsthan

Mamaleshwar Temple


 We came back by steps towards Omkar Ghat and the boatman ferried us to see Mamaleshwara Temple located on the south side of the Narmada River on mainland. Both Omkareshwar and Mamaleshswar are treated as two halves of one and same Jyothirlinga.  In olden times Mamaleshwara was called Amareshwara. The temple is very old and simple in architecture and is seen in the heart of Omkareshwara town. Around the main shrine there are many small other shrines with small shiva lingams. Many devotees come here to do Parthiva Shiva Linga Pooja and Abhishekam. The verses of Shiva Mahimnam are seen inscribed on the temple walls dating back to 1063 A.D.

  To view the numerous surrounding temples and to have a holy dip at the confluence of Narmada and Kaveri Rivers, many pilgrims go around the island called Narmada Parikrama covering a distance of nearly 7 k.m. The tourism dept laid out a proper path for the convenience of pilgrims. But one has to climb steps and wallk through valleys taking proper care of their belongings from langoors on the way. All along the route called “Gita Marg” verses from the “Gita” are seen painted on wooden boards. The Parikrama starts from “Govindeshwar Gufa” and goes through Sangama where people bathe at the confluence of rivers before moving forward. One can see many ruined fortwalls, temples and archways indicating once this island was the main capital with many mansions and temples. The Rinamukteswar temple and Gauri Somath temples are seen on the way. Gauri Somnath temple was constructed by Paramaras in 15th century. The two-metre high black granite Linga in the sanctum is quite impressive. Just near this temple one comes across Hanuman temple where Lord Hanuman is seen in lying position. Later one can see a very huge statue of Lord Shiva in meditating posture near Raja Rajeshwari Seva Samsthan. Another ancient temple seen on the way is Siddanth temple with paintings of two huge elephants at the entrance and a beautiful carving of Nandi on the hillside facing the temple. The Parikrama ends here leading to a downhill path giving you a glimpse of the suspension bridge.


Durbar Hall in Mandhata Palace
View of flowing Narmada from palace balconies

 On the banks of Narmada many old mansions and palaces are seen. The Guru Dwara and the Mandhata or Omkareshwar Palace are the prominent structures behind which the white tower of Omkareshwar temple is seen. Most of the pilgrims do not have time or patience to go inside those old buildings. In Benares also we find many old palaces and Ashrmas built on the banks of the Ganges. . A narrow lane leads from the bustling flower market at the ghat and winds up to the entrance to the palace. From the outside, the entire palace looks like a single structure, but upon entering it, one can see that it is actually a series of three large courtyards surrounded by rooms on two levels. We learnt this Mandhata Palace was built by Holkars and inside one can see the paintings and the painted Durbar Hall with three beautiful balconies from where one can have a fascinating view of Narmada with surrounding hills and temples on the slopes. At night Omkareshwar appears grand decked in new splendors with dazzling lights and dark waves of Narmada glistening with two brightly illuminated suspension bridges spanning across it. One finds tranquility and serene beauty here with cool refreshing breezes here along with ancient temples and mansions that stand as symbols of lost glory. Really one loves to come here again and again and find true peace of mind and devotion.

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  28th November, 2017                                                   Somaseshu Gutala










                                

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