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| Omkareshwar Temple |
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| Bridge connecting the Omkareshwar island with mainland |
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| Govindeshwar Cave |
We started from Indore to Omkareshwar by taxi and we reached
Omkareshwar in two and a half hours. The sight of the river Narmada with
surrounding Vindhya hills and valleys makes this pilgrimage spot very much
attractive and pleasant. As it was afternoon it was very hot. We went on a full
moon day and so the temple path was full of crowds. Our taxi was stopped far
away from the temple. The bridge leading to the temple has a long line of
pilgrims. It may take many hours to reach the temple. Then we decided to go by
boat to go to Omkareshwar temple which is located on an island called Mandhata
or Shivapuri. Many boatmen pursued us assuring that they would provide quick
darshan. Many pilgrims coming from other states are duped by these people who
ask fare in very huge amounts. So one should be very cautious in dealing with
these people and pandas.
Our boat was moored
at Gomukh ghat and we joined the queue almost near the steps leading to the
temple. But the steps are very steep and the path is also very rough and
uneven. The front hall was crowded with people and we had to keep our shoes at
a place where others also had placed. Later we came to know that there was a
shoe stand nearby. But the crowd was not properly regulated by temple
authorities. There was a heavy rush and people were just pushed inside to have
a quick glimpse of a small Shiva Lingam which was very much worn out and seen
at a low level over which water is falling from a pipe incessantly. There is a
natural water spring near the shrine. Just behind Shiva Lingam there is a small
idol of Parvati. There are shrines for five-faced Ganapati and Annapoorna. The
front hall has many high pillars with Yaksha and Yakshini figures caved on the
friezes and walls. This temple was first built by Mandhata who did severe
penance and Shiva appeared before him in the form of Jyothirlinga. In 11th
century the Paramara kings re-built the temple and later the Holkar kings
renovated it in Nagara style with five storeys depicting different gods at
every level. At the base of the temple there is a cave called Govindapada Gufa
where Sri Shankaracharya met his guru Sri Govindha Vallabha . As it was very
crowded we had very little time to see the temple.
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| Siddhanath Temple |
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| Gauri Somnath Temple |
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| Hanuman in lying position in the temple |
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| Statue of Shiva at Rajarejeshwari seva Samsthan |
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| Mamaleshwar Temple |
We came back by steps
towards Omkar Ghat and the boatman ferried us to see Mamaleshwara Temple
located on the south side of the Narmada River on mainland. Both Omkareshwar
and Mamaleshswar are treated as two halves of one and same Jyothirlinga. In olden times Mamaleshwara was called
Amareshwara. The temple is very old and simple in architecture and is seen in
the heart of Omkareshwara town. Around the main shrine there are many small
other shrines with small shiva lingams. Many devotees come here to do Parthiva
Shiva Linga Pooja and Abhishekam. The verses of Shiva Mahimnam are seen
inscribed on the temple walls dating back to 1063 A.D.
To view the numerous
surrounding temples and to have a holy dip at the confluence of Narmada and
Kaveri Rivers, many pilgrims go around the island called Narmada Parikrama
covering a distance of nearly 7 k.m. The tourism dept laid out a proper path
for the convenience of pilgrims. But one has to climb steps and wallk through
valleys taking proper care of their belongings from langoors on the way. All
along the route called “Gita Marg” verses from the “Gita” are seen painted on
wooden boards. The Parikrama starts from “Govindeshwar Gufa” and goes through
Sangama where people bathe at the confluence of rivers before moving forward.
One can see many ruined fortwalls, temples and archways indicating once this
island was the main capital with many mansions and temples. The Rinamukteswar
temple and Gauri Somath temples are seen on the way. Gauri Somnath temple was
constructed by Paramaras in 15th century. The two-metre high black
granite Linga in the sanctum is quite impressive. Just near this temple one
comes across Hanuman temple where Lord Hanuman is seen in lying position. Later
one can see a very huge statue of Lord Shiva in meditating posture near Raja
Rajeshwari Seva Samsthan. Another ancient temple seen on the way is Siddanth
temple with paintings of two huge elephants at the entrance and a beautiful
carving of Nandi on the hillside facing the temple. The Parikrama ends here
leading to a downhill path giving you a glimpse of the suspension bridge.
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| Durbar Hall in Mandhata Palace |
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| View of flowing Narmada from palace balconies |
On the banks of Narmada
many old mansions and palaces are seen. The Guru Dwara and the Mandhata or
Omkareshwar Palace are the prominent structures behind which the white tower of
Omkareshwar temple is seen. Most of the pilgrims do not have time or patience
to go inside those old buildings. In Benares also we find many old palaces and
Ashrmas built on the banks of the Ganges. . A narrow lane leads from the bustling flower market at the
ghat and winds up to the entrance
to the palace. From the outside, the entire palace looks like a single
structure, but upon entering it, one can see that it is actually a series of
three large courtyards surrounded by rooms on two levels. We learnt this
Mandhata Palace was built by Holkars and inside one can see the paintings and
the painted Durbar Hall with three beautiful balconies from where one can have
a fascinating view of Narmada with surrounding hills and temples on the slopes.
At night Omkareshwar appears grand decked in new splendors with dazzling lights
and dark waves of Narmada glistening with two brightly illuminated suspension
bridges spanning across it. One finds tranquility and serene beauty here with
cool refreshing breezes here along with ancient temples and mansions that stand
as symbols of lost glory. Really one loves to come here again and again and
find true peace of mind and devotion.
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28th November, 2017 Somaseshu Gutala
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28th November, 2017 Somaseshu Gutala
