Saturday, November 30, 2013

The Thrilling Metropolis (Part-II)



The Royal Mile





Tattoo military celebrations











The main entrance road to the castle is called "Royal Mile" which is more than one mile by 107 yards in length. It starts at the castle entrance and leads to the gates of the Holy Rood Palace.The Royal Mile is the  busiest tourist street in the old town.On its way it is connected by many side-streets or cross roads. King David I realizing the strategic importance of the castle developed the village surrounding the castle hill (Dun Eidyn in ancient Gaelic means hill fort on the sloping edge). This High Street(main road) was called Via Regis that is the way of the king , from which the present name "Royal Mile" may have originated. The buildings and the gardens existing in this area were destroyed and burnt down by the English army in 1544 during the reign of the British king Henry VIII. This area was densely populated with a large population of more than 70,000 people dwelling in multi-storyed buildings, some of which were fourteen storyes high mainly built with stone in 1645. In 1880s Patrick Geddes, the famous Botanist and town-planner developed this area by re-modelling and adding court yards and gardens in the Royal Mile, thus restoring its past glory as it seemed 500 years ago. At the entrance of the castle on the Esplanade, the Military Tattoo, a ceremonial form of evening entertainment, is organized every year in August. More than two lakhs of spectators attend this grand musical performance and musicians from more than thirty countries particpate in this magnificent spectacle.The Royal Bank of Scotland is one of the sponsors of this function.This show is broadcast in more than thirty countries all over the world and brings considerable benefit to the Govt. and charitable contributions to Army Benevolent Fund.The First Tattoo was organized officially by the British Govt. in 1950.


Witches' Well




















Just on the eastern corner of the Esplanade there was a place called "Witches' Well", the spot where the women guilty of practising witchcraft and black magic were tortured and burnt at stake. More than 300 witches lost their lives at this spot in the raging flames.A cast iron wall fountain with a metal plaque indicates the place just as a sign of peace to these ill-fated women.

As we walked through Royal Mile, our attention was caught by a board with letters engraved "Boswell's Court". Now it is an entrance way to "The Witchery Restaurant".This close(space or narrow passage between two buildings) was named after Dr.Boswell, who lived in this tenement in the late 18th century. His nephew James Boswell (1740-1795) was the devoted admirer and famous biographer of Dr.Samuel Johnson, with whom he dined here once.

Inside view of the Tartan Weaving Mill

The Tartan Weaving Mill















Typical Scottish Kilt
Various patterns of Kilts








Another building which attracted our attention was a big shop, actually a mill with five storeys , called " The Tartan Weaving Mill" an exhibition showing the production of woolen clothes through various stages right from shearing wool to making kilts. It is a factory-cum-shop showing the the evolutionary changes in  processes and procedures of woolen cloth manufacturing industry. I saw different types of weaving instruments and looms. The typical Scottish pattern in red with  black and white squares is seen on kilts, caps and jackets etc.We also found many gift items and souvenirs here. In olden days this building used to be the castle hill reservoir for supplying water to the residents of the Royal Mile. The word Tartan (in Gaelic Breacan) refers to the Scottish woolen design - a square where two colors cross, giving a speckled effect-- a network of horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors.
                                                                                                                           

St.Giles Cathedral
Stained Glass Windows




In Between the Royal Mile and Holyrood Palace lies St.Giles Cathedral, also known as High Kirk of  Edinburgh and the Mother Church of Presbyterianism. Though there used to be a small church at this site in 854, the formal dedication of the church took place in 1243 by the Bishop of St.Andrews.During the reign of the Scottish king David I (1124-1153) a bigger church was built at this place. Later many chapels and extensions were added by the merchants and nobles. John Knox(1505-1572) , the Scottish reformer introduced many changes in the system and organization of the church during his tenure of ministership between 1559 and 1572. This church was governed by episcopal bishops only during 1635-1638 and 1661and 1689.backed by the authority of the kings,


As we were looking for a suitable restaurant to find some shelter from chilly blast in cold night, we saw a huge crowd watching the daring feats of an acrobat balancing himself on a long pole and talking through a microphone connected to his head from behind. In the shivering blast of the northern weather he was seated on a pole fixed to cycle wheel on the ground. He was bare-bodied and was turning the gas-lit fire brands in a circle with superb skill . He was cracking jokes as if he was seated comfortably on a plush cushioned seat. He performed his feats so effortlessly that we were wonder-struck to see how he endured such biting cold weather and entertaining the onlookers without showing least signs of any discomfort. We heard of bare-bodied yogis who did penance in snow-covered Himalayas. Such endurance I found in this person who announced that he used to come once a year to regale the audience with his excellent feats. The crowd cheered and threw a shower of coins in appreciation of his wonderful abilities.

Camera Obscura
World of Illusions




















 Another unforgettable spectacle of attraction in the Royal Mile is the exhibition called "Camera Obscura", the world of illusions. Though the entry fee is somewhat high, we went inside to seek refuge from the rough cold weather. The meaning of Camera Obscura is "an optical device that projects an image of its surroundings on a screen. It is used in drawing and for entertainment and was one of the inventions that led to photography," (Wikipedia). In common terms it is a dark room with many scientific instruments to view space objects or distant things. In the dark room we saw moving images of important places of Edinburgh projected on a level table surface from a giant telescope. It was quite amazing. We also saw mirrors and lenses that change our physical features and dimensions or swap our face with another one sitting on the opposite side. We realized that whatever we behold is not absolutely true and our visual experiences are conditioned by so many external factors beyond our vision-- a kind of Platonic interpretation felt in reality!
As we stayed in Edinburgh just for one day, we had no time to see the Holy Rood Palace. To voice my feelings properly, let me borrow this apt quotation from Alan Bold, the famous Sottish poet and biographer,

" Edinburgh is an experience.A city of enormous gifts. Whose streets sing of history, whose cobbles tell tales." Alan Bold.
 
   December 2nd 2013.                                                                                       Somaseshu Gutala

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