The Thrilling Metropolis (Part-II)

The Royal Mile

Tattoo military celebrations

The main entrance road to the castle is called "Royal Mile" which is more than one mile by 107 yards in length. It starts at the castle entrance and leads to the gates of the Holy Rood Palace.The Royal Mile is the  busiest tourist street in the old town.On its way it is connected by many side-streets or cross roads. King David I realizing the strategic importance of the castle developed the village surrounding the castle hill (Dun Eidyn in ancient Gaelic means hill fort on the sloping edge). This High Street(main road) was called Via Regis that is the way of the king , from which the present name "Royal Mile" may have originated. The buildings and the gardens existing in this area were destroyed and burnt down by the English army in 1544 during the reign of the British king Henry VIII. This area was densely populated with a large population of more than 70,000 people dwelling in multi-storyed buildings, some of which were fourteen storyes high mainly built with stone in 1645. In 1880s Patrick Geddes, the famous Botanist and town-planner developed this area by re-modelling and adding court yards and gardens in the Royal Mile, thus restoring its past glory as it seemed 500 years ago. At the entrance of the castle on the Esplanade, the Military Tattoo, a ceremonial form of evening entertainment, is organized every year in August. More than two lakhs of spectators attend this grand musical performance and musicians from more than thirty countries particpate in this magnificent spectacle.The Royal Bank of Scotland is one of the sponsors of this function.This show is broadcast in more than thirty countries all over the world and brings considerable benefit to the Govt. and charitable contributions to Army Benevolent Fund.The First Tattoo was organized officially by the British Govt. in 1950.

Witches' Well

Just on the eastern corner of the Esplanade there was a place called "Witches' Well", the spot where the women guilty of practising witchcraft and black magic were tortured and burnt at stake. More than 300 witches lost their lives at this spot in the raging flames.A cast iron wall fountain with a metal plaque indicates the place just as a sign of peace to these ill-fated women.

As we walked through Royal Mile, our attention was caught by a board with letters engraved "Boswell's Court". Now it is an entrance way to "The Witchery Restaurant".This close(space or narrow passage between two buildings) was named after Dr.Boswell, who lived in this tenement in the late 18th century. His nephew James Boswell (1740-1795) was the devoted admirer and famous biographer of Dr.Samuel Johnson, with whom he dined here once.

Inside view of the Tartan Weaving Mill

The Tartan Weaving Mill

Typical Scottish Kilt

Various patterns of Kilts

Another building which attracted our attention was a big shop, actually a mill with five storeys , called " The Tartan Weaving Mill" an exhibition showing the production of woolen clothes through various stages right from shearing wool to making kilts. It is a factory-cum-shop showing the the evolutionary changes in  processes and procedures of woolen cloth manufacturing industry. I saw different types of weaving instruments and looms. The typical Scottish pattern in red with  black and white squares is seen on kilts, caps and jackets etc.We also found many gift items and souvenirs here. In olden days this building used to be the castle hill reservoir for supplying water to the residents of the Royal Mile. The word Tartan (in Gaelic Breacan) refers to the Scottish woolen design - a square where two colors cross, giving a speckled effect-- a network of horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors.
                                                                                                                           

St.Giles Cathedral

Stained Glass Windows

In Between the Royal Mile and Holyrood Palace lies St.Giles Cathedral, also known as High Kirk of  Edinburgh and the Mother Church of Presbyterianism. Though there used to be a small church at this site in 854, the formal dedication of the church took place in 1243 by the Bishop of St.Andrews.During the reign of the Scottish king David I (1124-1153) a bigger church was built at this place. Later many chapels and extensions were added by the merchants and nobles. John Knox(1505-1572) , the Scottish reformer introduced many changes in the system and organization of the church during his tenure of ministership between 1559 and 1572. This church was governed by episcopal bishops only during 1635-1638 and 1661and 1689.backed by the authority of the kings,


As we were looking for a suitable restaurant to find some shelter from chilly blast in cold night, we saw a huge crowd watching the daring feats of an acrobat balancing himself on a long pole and talking through a microphone connected to his head from behind. In the shivering blast of the northern weather he was seated on a pole fixed to cycle wheel on the ground. He was bare-bodied and was turning the gas-lit fire brands in a circle with superb skill . He was cracking jokes as if he was seated comfortably on a plush cushioned seat. He performed his feats so effortlessly that we were wonder-struck to see how he endured such biting cold weather and entertaining the onlookers without showing least signs of any discomfort. We heard of bare-bodied yogis who did penance in snow-covered Himalayas. Such endurance I found in this person who announced that he used to come once a year to regale the audience with his excellent feats. The crowd cheered and threw a shower of coins in appreciation of his wonderful abilities.

Camera Obscura

World of Illusions

 Another unforgettable spectacle of attraction in the Royal Mile is the exhibition called "Camera Obscura", the world of illusions. Though the entry fee is somewhat high, we went inside to seek refuge from the rough cold weather. The meaning of Camera Obscura is "an optical device that projects an image of its surroundings on a screen. It is used in drawing and for entertainment and was one of the inventions that led to photography," (Wikipedia). In common terms it is a dark room with many scientific instruments to view space objects or distant things. In the dark room we saw moving images of important places of Edinburgh projected on a level table surface from a giant telescope. It was quite amazing. We also saw mirrors and lenses that change our physical features and dimensions or swap our face with another one sitting on the opposite side. We realized that whatever we behold is not absolutely true and our visual experiences are conditioned by so many external factors beyond our vision-- a kind of Platonic interpretation felt in reality!
As we stayed in Edinburgh just for one day, we had no time to see the Holy Rood Palace. To voice my feelings properly, let me borrow this apt quotation from Alan Bold, the famous Sottish poet and biographer,

" Edinburgh is an experience.A city of enormous gifts. Whose streets sing of history, whose cobbles tell tales." Alan Bold.
 
   December 2nd 2013.                                                                                       Somaseshu Gutala

The Thrilling Metropolis -- Edinburgh (Part I)

Edinburgh Castle

The statues of Robert Bruce and William Wallace

                                                                                         
 
 For most of us Scotland brings a picture of a mountainous region with icy winds and uncultivated wilderness  without much sophisticated European prudery and fashionable styles.But after our visit to Edinburgh our conception underwent a thorough sea-change and showed us the mysterious spell cast by this historic city decked with so many monuments and memorials.We went to Edinburgh by flight from Gatwyck Airport in London. It took just one and half an hour to cover a distance of 355 miles. Soon after we got down, we caught a taxi to reach our lodgings, Hotel Ritz, located in the heart of the city. The taxi driver was a tall, hefty woman with reddish hair revealing the typical Scottish vigor and dynamic energy. Though Scotland is a part of the Great Britain, she has got her own currency and administrative system. The weather was quite chilly with strong blowing winds. Edinburgh, like London, was a big city with many old buildings and monuments standing like strong citadels resisting the ravages of time with their stone-built construction, carved designs and big arched windows. The houses were comparatively bigger and more spacious than those of London.

The figure of St.Margaret

St.Margaret's  Chapel

 First we made our way to the famous Edinburgh Castle firmly set upon a tall volcanic rock in the center of the city. We approached the fort through a busy street flanked by many shops, restaurants and pubs.This main street is called "Royal Mile". Perched on the top a huge imposing rock, the castle seemed very majestic with many turrets and towers. This is one of the oldest castles from where many Scottish kings ruled and so many patriotic heroes laid down their lives to win back their precious national symbol of pride and prestige from the warring British kings and Barons. The Scottish War Memorial designed by Lorimer was built within the premises of the castle shortly after the World War I. The broad walk or esplanade near the castle is the place where the world-famous Tattoo (military band music festival) is held annually over a three-week period in August. This castle is at the west end of the old town and was constructed in the twelfth century in the reign of King David I and continued to be the royal residence till the union of the crowns in 1603. From the fifteenth century onwards, the castle gradually lost its importance as the residential place of the royalty. By the seventeenth century this castle had been used as military barracks. St.Margaret's Chapel is the oldest surviving structure built in 12th century that withstood many invasions by the British monarchs. King David I, built this church in memory of his mother St.Margaret, who died in this castle in 1093.  In 1174, the Scottish King William I gave away this castle along with three other castles to the English King Henry II as personal ransom. In 1186 this castle was restored to King William again. During the Scottish wars of Independence this castle changed hands many times. In 1314 Robert Bruce won this castle from Edward III of England and built a new castle in 1335 but held it only till 1341. After the wars of Independence (1286-1328)  David II constructed most part of the castle. In his honor, David's Tower was erected. In 1571 the English forces laid siege for two years and destroyed David's Tower. After the death of the English Virgin Queen Elizabeth I, King James I (James VI, son of Mary, Queen of Scots ) became the king of  England uniting both the Scottish and English kingdoms.

 The coat of arms of this city bears the castle as one of its important symbols with three towers  The anchor wreathed about with a cable refers to the office of the Admiral of the Forth held by the Lord Provost of this town.The maiden on the left indicates this place as a haven for royal princesses and the doe represents the symbol associated with St.Giles, the patron saint of this city. The Latin phrase over the anchor"Nisi Dominus Frustra"is a heraldic contraction of a verse taken from the 127th psalm with the meaning " Except the Lord Build the house, Thy labor in vain that build it / Except the Lord keep the city, the watchman walketh in vain."  The images of this castle are used on postal stamps and on various bank notes issued by the Royal Bank of Scotland.
 
This castle, having different types of construction in different times, still preserves the basic structure in tact with strong defenses at three levels. At every level one can find turrets with circular stone steps that makes enemies very difficult to enter. Many canons were kept to defend this fort. Even now at 10' clock, a canon is fired from the castle as a reminder to break for the lunch, except on Sundays. The Great Hall, built by James IV was used for the State Assembly meetings. In 1650 Cromwell invaded and occupied this castle and converted it into soldiers' barracks.

                                                                      
                                           

The Chamber where James I was born

The Great Hall

Inside the War Museum

National War Museum

The Royal Palace is the official residence of Scottish kings and royal family. Queen Mary's mother, Marie De Guise, died here in 1650. We saw the painted portraits of James I and Queen Mary I. James I was born here in 1566. There are many vaults beneath the castle which were used for storing goods and for keeping prisoners. We saw the prison vaults where the French soldiers captured during the war were kept. It was like a dungeon. The prisoners had to sleep in swings made of coarse material. Each prisoner was given just the minimum quantity of food and drink. Some prisoners with artistic talent made some toys and artifacts with the material they could get. Some scratched their names as sad reminders of their fate. During the Napoleonic wars(1803-1815), prisoners from various countries like France, Germany, Holland, Spain and Italy  were kept here in captivity.

                                                                

The Coat of arms of the city of Edinburgh

The Royal Crown , scepter and the sword

 In the Crown Room of the royal palace one can see the Crown, Scepter and sword of the Scottish kings which dated from the fifteenth century.The crown was made by the Edinburgh goldsmith, John Mosman in 1540 and was first worn by James V at the coronation ceremony of his second queen, Marie De Guise. The scepter was presented to James IV by the Pope Alexander VI in 1494, and the sword in1508 by the Pope Julius II. Mary, Queen of Scots, was crowned and was given the sword and the scepter at her coronation ceremony on 9th September, 1543, when she was just an infant.

Inside the prison

Prison for war captives

The National War Museum was opened here in 1933. Originally this building was an ordnance store built in 1755. One can see various weapons, scenes from wars, Scottish weapons and the typical Scottish uniform. Owing to their sturdy and martial qualities and their enduring grit and brave qualities, mostly Scottish people were recruited by the British Govt.The Scot soldiers rendered commendable service and occupied high positions in the British army. We can see the portraits of those brave colonels and majors here. This castle stands as a silent witness to so many historic incidents and happenings and still reveals the past glory of Scottish kingdom and the sacrifices made by so many martyrs to defend their country. Let me end this article with the inspiring lines Sir Walter Scott that breathe the true spirit of Scottish Patriotic feelings.

                                         
                                          " Breathes there the man with soul so dead
                                          ' Who never to himself hath said',
                                           This is my own, my native land
                                           Whose heart hath never within him burned
                                           As home his footsteps he hath turned
                                           From wandering on a foreign strand?"

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        November 5th 2013                                                      Somaseshu Gutala