On my visit to Srisailam, (Nandyal District, Andhra Pradesh)

 

Main Temple Tower of Mallikarjuna temple

Lord Mallikarjuna

Temple tower of Mallikarjuna temple

      

Carvings in Mallikarjuna temple

carvings on walls in Mallikarjuna Temple

 

Lord  Nandiswara

Sculp;tures in Bhramaramba temple

Goddess Bhramaramba

Goddess Bhramaramba sculpture

                         

Lord Veerabhadra near Mallikarjuna temple

Sakshi Ganapati

Paladhara-Panchdhara

Patalaganga Dam

       

 Srisailam is located at a distance of 240 kms from Hyderabad and 180 kms from Kurnool. The nearest railway station is Markapur railway station at a distance of 82kms. We started from Hyderabad and went through by-pass roads via Jedcherala, Dindi and Mallapur. The road from Hyderabad to Dindi is very smooth and one can travel comfortably well. Later the road becomes narrow within many curves and bends. One can see many small villages and dry lands. As one goes further the forest area comes before with many baboo bushes and bulky trees with wide spread-branches. Everywhere you see boards with figures of tiger to warn the passengers about wild animals. We did not see any wild animals on the road except hordes of monkeys playing on the branches of the trees. This ghat road is open from 6.00 a.m., to 9.00 p.m.  In small cottages we saw the tribal people called Chenchus who collect wild honey and make various products like mats, chairs and baskets with bamboo stems.  We stopped at Mrigavani, a restaurant located in Mannanur (75kms from Srisailam) in midst of forest, to have our buffet- lunch. This is the last place where one can get good food.

Just three kms before entering Srisailam, we had darshan of Sakshi Ganapati. Here the lord is believed to keep attendance of pilgrims who come here. He acts as Sakshi or witness. Lord Ganesha holds a book in the left hand and a pen in the right hand. In Srisailam, we were provided accommodation in Ganga Sadan. We went to the temple directly to have darshan. The temple is built on the top of the Nallamala Hills situated on the banks of River Krishna.  This hill is called Srigiri or Sriparvatham. References about this temple are seen in Mahabharata and Skanda Puranam. Mention about this temple is seen in Nasik inscription of Vasishtiputra Pulumavi of the first century. The IKshvakus ruled Srisailam from 200-300 A.D. Vishnukundin kings also were the devotees of Sri Mallikarjuma Swamy.

 The sanctum of Lord Mallikarjuna is considered the oldest in the temple dating back to seventh century. In 6^th century the Kadamba king Mayura Sharma described Srisailam as Sriparvatam. The Kakatiya king along with his wife visited Srisailam and performed Tulabhara. The Reddy rulers of the 13^th century developed Srisailam. Anavema Reddy built Veera Shiromandapam. In 1405 Katyavema Reddy laid steps to Srisailam and Pedakomati Vema Reddy laid steps to Patalaganga. Among Vijayanagara kings, Harihararaya II (1342-1404) constructed the main hall of the main temple and his wife Vitalamba laid steps to Patalaganga.

 This temple has four entrances with four towers or gopuras. The eastern entrance is the main dwaram. Among them, three towers were built by Vijayanagara Kings. The northern tower was constructed by Shivaji who visited this temple and worshipped the Goddess. The vimana over the sanctum was a gold-plated nine-tiered structure with a Poorna Kumbha and an eight-petalled lotus below it. Four Nandi statues are seen on the four corners below the superstructure.

The temple timings are from 4.30 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.  Luckily there was no rush. We have availed atiseeghra darshanam by paying 300/- per head. The timings for this are between 6.00 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. and from 600 p.m. to 10.00 p.m. The Nandi mandapam looked impressive with a huge statue of Nandi just in front of the Veerasiro Mandapam. On the ceiling of Nandimandapa one can see the unique carving of Shiva and Parvati riding on a bull surrounded by Dikpalakas (Lords of eight directions) on their respective Vahanas.

The Veerasiro Mandapam was built by Reddy ruler Anavema reddy in 1378.  As per Veera Saiva tradition, the devotees used to offer their heads, hands and tongue as mark of their devotion in olden days. The Mukha Mandapam was constructed by the Vijayanagara King Harihara Raya in 1405. In the Garbhalaya, one can see the tiny Jyothirlingam of 25cms in height with a circular stone platform (panavattam) around.

Here the Lord is called Mallikarjuna as He was worshipped with jasmine flowers by a princess called Chandravati. Mallika is another name for Parvati while Arjuna means Shiva. Lord Shiva here is considered as one of the self-manifested twelve Jyotirlingams. One can do Abhishekam in person by Paying Rs.1500/-couple. Abhishekam timings are 6.00 a.m. to 8.0o0 a. m in the morning and from 4.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. in the evening. For Sparsha Darshan, one has to book tickets priced at Rs.500/. Just before entering the sanctum, we can see Ratnagarbha Vinayaka made of red stone. The sculptures of two dwarapalakas are seen in the entrance hall or Antarala. Several forms of Shiva are carved one above the other on the pillars. This inner sanctum was constructed by the queen Mailamaba, Sister of Kakati Ganapatideva in 1220-1230 A.D.

 

Later we went to have darshan of the Goddess Bhramaramba, on the western side of the main temple.  This is the sixth Shaktipeetha where the neck of Sati devi fell. According to legends, Goddess Bhramaramba killed the demon Arunasura by sending thousands of bees. In entrance hall or Mukha Mandapa of this temple, there are many pillars with beautiful sculptures like hunting on elephants, dancing girls and musicians.  At the interior center of Mukha Mandapa, a stone Sree Chakram is seen installed by Sri Sankaracharya. In the inner sanctum, the Goddess Bhramaramba is seen gilded with silver plates. She is seen in a standing posture with eight hands with a trident in her right hand killing Mahishasura.  On the temple tower images of various forms of Shakti and lions are seen. In front of this temple there are many mandapas with an interior court yard below. We can see many forms of Shiva like Uma Maheshwara, Arthanarishwara, Rajarajeshwara, Nava Brahma Lingas, Virabhadra and Kumara Swamy in a row including Vriddha Mallikarjuna, the oldest Shiva Lingam Installed here. We can see the folds and wrinkles on this Shiva Lingam suggesting its primitive age.  Sahasralingam was installed here by Lord Sri Ram. Devotees are not allowed to exit from this way. They have to move all the way back to the temple of Bhramaramba, which seems very inconvenient. As there was a heavy downpour, we were all drenched while going back. This problem can be easily solved if temple authorities provide an exit from inner courtyard also. Elderly people may find it difficult to go in the long queue and climb the steps at various levels; so it would be better if a shorter route and easy access is provided to them just like in Tirumala temple.

 There are many other pilgrimage spots around this temple such as Hatakeshwaram, Pala Dhara-Pancha Dhara, Akka Mahadevi caves and Shikareshwaram. To reach Patala Ganga one has to go down nearly five hundred steps. Now ropeway facility is provided from Haritha hotel to reach Patala Ganga.  Chenchulakshmi Tribal Museum and Rajeev Gandhi Wild Life sanctuary are also other worthseeing places. Srisailam hydro-electric project or dam is nearly 15kms from the temple. There is bus facility to go there from Srisailam.  One can experience the scenic beauty of Nallamala forests and look at the beautiful sculptures of the temples and the gushing waters of the Krishna waters from the dam site as well.

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            23rd December,2022                  Somaseshu Gutala