On my visit to Srisailam, (Nandyal District, Andhra Pradesh)

 

Main Temple Tower of Mallikarjuna temple

Lord Mallikarjuna

Temple tower of Mallikarjuna temple

      

Carvings in Mallikarjuna temple

carvings on walls in Mallikarjuna Temple

 

Lord  Nandiswara

Sculp;tures in Bhramaramba temple

Goddess Bhramaramba

Goddess Bhramaramba sculpture

                         

Lord Veerabhadra near Mallikarjuna temple

Sakshi Ganapati

Paladhara-Panchdhara

Patalaganga Dam

       

 Srisailam is located at a distance of 240 kms from Hyderabad and 180 kms from Kurnool. The nearest railway station is Markapur railway station at a distance of 82kms. We started from Hyderabad and went through by-pass roads via Jedcherala, Dindi and Mallapur. The road from Hyderabad to Dindi is very smooth and one can travel comfortably well. Later the road becomes narrow within many curves and bends. One can see many small villages and dry lands. As one goes further the forest area comes before with many baboo bushes and bulky trees with wide spread-branches. Everywhere you see boards with figures of tiger to warn the passengers about wild animals. We did not see any wild animals on the road except hordes of monkeys playing on the branches of the trees. This ghat road is open from 6.00 a.m., to 9.00 p.m.  In small cottages we saw the tribal people called Chenchus who collect wild honey and make various products like mats, chairs and baskets with bamboo stems.  We stopped at Mrigavani, a restaurant located in Mannanur (75kms from Srisailam) in midst of forest, to have our buffet- lunch. This is the last place where one can get good food.

Just three kms before entering Srisailam, we had darshan of Sakshi Ganapati. Here the lord is believed to keep attendance of pilgrims who come here. He acts as Sakshi or witness. Lord Ganesha holds a book in the left hand and a pen in the right hand. In Srisailam, we were provided accommodation in Ganga Sadan. We went to the temple directly to have darshan. The temple is built on the top of the Nallamala Hills situated on the banks of River Krishna.  This hill is called Srigiri or Sriparvatham. References about this temple are seen in Mahabharata and Skanda Puranam. Mention about this temple is seen in Nasik inscription of Vasishtiputra Pulumavi of the first century. The IKshvakus ruled Srisailam from 200-300 A.D. Vishnukundin kings also were the devotees of Sri Mallikarjuma Swamy.

 The sanctum of Lord Mallikarjuna is considered the oldest in the temple dating back to seventh century. In 6^th century the Kadamba king Mayura Sharma described Srisailam as Sriparvatam. The Kakatiya king along with his wife visited Srisailam and performed Tulabhara. The Reddy rulers of the 13^th century developed Srisailam. Anavema Reddy built Veera Shiromandapam. In 1405 Katyavema Reddy laid steps to Srisailam and Pedakomati Vema Reddy laid steps to Patalaganga. Among Vijayanagara kings, Harihararaya II (1342-1404) constructed the main hall of the main temple and his wife Vitalamba laid steps to Patalaganga.

 This temple has four entrances with four towers or gopuras. The eastern entrance is the main dwaram. Among them, three towers were built by Vijayanagara Kings. The northern tower was constructed by Shivaji who visited this temple and worshipped the Goddess. The vimana over the sanctum was a gold-plated nine-tiered structure with a Poorna Kumbha and an eight-petalled lotus below it. Four Nandi statues are seen on the four corners below the superstructure.

The temple timings are from 4.30 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.  Luckily there was no rush. We have availed atiseeghra darshanam by paying 300/- per head. The timings for this are between 6.00 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. and from 600 p.m. to 10.00 p.m. The Nandi mandapam looked impressive with a huge statue of Nandi just in front of the Veerasiro Mandapam. On the ceiling of Nandimandapa one can see the unique carving of Shiva and Parvati riding on a bull surrounded by Dikpalakas (Lords of eight directions) on their respective Vahanas.

The Veerasiro Mandapam was built by Reddy ruler Anavema reddy in 1378.  As per Veera Saiva tradition, the devotees used to offer their heads, hands and tongue as mark of their devotion in olden days. The Mukha Mandapam was constructed by the Vijayanagara King Harihara Raya in 1405. In the Garbhalaya, one can see the tiny Jyothirlingam of 25cms in height with a circular stone platform (panavattam) around.

Here the Lord is called Mallikarjuna as He was worshipped with jasmine flowers by a princess called Chandravati. Mallika is another name for Parvati while Arjuna means Shiva. Lord Shiva here is considered as one of the self-manifested twelve Jyotirlingams. One can do Abhishekam in person by Paying Rs.1500/-couple. Abhishekam timings are 6.00 a.m. to 8.0o0 a. m in the morning and from 4.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. in the evening. For Sparsha Darshan, one has to book tickets priced at Rs.500/. Just before entering the sanctum, we can see Ratnagarbha Vinayaka made of red stone. The sculptures of two dwarapalakas are seen in the entrance hall or Antarala. Several forms of Shiva are carved one above the other on the pillars. This inner sanctum was constructed by the queen Mailamaba, Sister of Kakati Ganapatideva in 1220-1230 A.D.

 

Later we went to have darshan of the Goddess Bhramaramba, on the western side of the main temple.  This is the sixth Shaktipeetha where the neck of Sati devi fell. According to legends, Goddess Bhramaramba killed the demon Arunasura by sending thousands of bees. In entrance hall or Mukha Mandapa of this temple, there are many pillars with beautiful sculptures like hunting on elephants, dancing girls and musicians.  At the interior center of Mukha Mandapa, a stone Sree Chakram is seen installed by Sri Sankaracharya. In the inner sanctum, the Goddess Bhramaramba is seen gilded with silver plates. She is seen in a standing posture with eight hands with a trident in her right hand killing Mahishasura.  On the temple tower images of various forms of Shakti and lions are seen. In front of this temple there are many mandapas with an interior court yard below. We can see many forms of Shiva like Uma Maheshwara, Arthanarishwara, Rajarajeshwara, Nava Brahma Lingas, Virabhadra and Kumara Swamy in a row including Vriddha Mallikarjuna, the oldest Shiva Lingam Installed here. We can see the folds and wrinkles on this Shiva Lingam suggesting its primitive age.  Sahasralingam was installed here by Lord Sri Ram. Devotees are not allowed to exit from this way. They have to move all the way back to the temple of Bhramaramba, which seems very inconvenient. As there was a heavy downpour, we were all drenched while going back. This problem can be easily solved if temple authorities provide an exit from inner courtyard also. Elderly people may find it difficult to go in the long queue and climb the steps at various levels; so it would be better if a shorter route and easy access is provided to them just like in Tirumala temple.

 There are many other pilgrimage spots around this temple such as Hatakeshwaram, Pala Dhara-Pancha Dhara, Akka Mahadevi caves and Shikareshwaram. To reach Patala Ganga one has to go down nearly five hundred steps. Now ropeway facility is provided from Haritha hotel to reach Patala Ganga.  Chenchulakshmi Tribal Museum and Rajeev Gandhi Wild Life sanctuary are also other worthseeing places. Srisailam hydro-electric project or dam is nearly 15kms from the temple. There is bus facility to go there from Srisailam.  One can experience the scenic beauty of Nallamala forests and look at the beautiful sculptures of the temples and the gushing waters of the Krishna waters from the dam site as well.

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            23rd December,2022                  Somaseshu Gutala

  

On my visit to Ganesh Food Court, Srisailam

  

 

                        

      

                      

    

This food court is located on the Patalaganaga main road and is quite near to the main temple. It is quite spacious and well-maintained. Around the main hall you can see various food counters with labels showing various items of food available there such as South Indian, North Indian, Chinese, fast food, chat, beverages etc.,

Many items like sandwiches, pizzas, fruit juices, masala dosa and Manchuria fried rice are available here at reasonable fare. The ambiance is good and neatly maintained. But here self-service is available. For kids there are some sports equipment within the hotel. The items are delicious and tasty. There is further scope to improve the neatness and prompt delivery of food items to customers in this food court. If serving facility is provided it would be more convenient for elderly people and family members. The opening hours are from 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 p.m. One can get breakfast, lunch and dinner here. One can feel relaxed and refresh oneself with various food items here. Drive-in, take-away and delivery facilities are available here.

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             16th December, 2022                         Somaseshu Gutala

On my visit to Shirdi Sai Baba Temple, Kurnool (Andhra Pradesh)

         

Star-shaped Sai baba mandir

                                            

Lord Dattatreya's  shrine

        

Shrine for Nava Avadhutha idols

   

View of the Tungabahdra River from Sai baba mandir

                   

Sri Bala Sai Baba Mandir facade

Sri Bala Sai Baba life-size marble statue

                                         

Sri Bala Sai Samadhi

Statue of Lakshmi Ganapati 

This temple is considered as the oldest Sai Baba Temple in the world. In Shirdi the marble idol of Sai Baba was installed by Shirdi Sai Sansthan on 7^th October, 1954. Till then only a painting done by Shyam Rao Jayakar was seen in the Samadhi Mandir. In Kurnool the pristine marble statue of Sai Baba was installed on 10th November (Vijaya Dashami Day) in 1951.  The foundation stone for this temple was laid by K. Veera Swamy Naidu in 1947.This star-shaped temple was built beside the banks of Tungabhadra River in an area of one and a half acres.  Tall trees and a beautiful garden give a sense of serenity to the surroundings. In the central hall one can see the sculptures which depict the life history of Sai Baba life and his divine miracles. There are many pillars with carvings which add beauty to this temple. There are separate shrines for Goddess Lakshmi and Lord Hanuman. There is a spacious hall to conduct meetings and meditation. In the temple premises there is a shrine for Lord Dattatreya. There is a neem tree coupled with Aswatha Tree which is deemed to be very sacred. There is a unique shrine with nine Avadhuta statues.  Just like in Shirdi, there is also Sai Dhuni (Sacred fire place) where devotees do pradakshinam. On the temple tower one can see many statues of various gods and goddesses with a Poorna Kumbha with a saffron flag on the top. The tomb of Sri Veera Swamy Naidu is also seen in the temple premises. We heard the loud singing of devotional songs. The volume of the sound was too loud. It would be better to reduce the volume so that devotees can pray with more attention. In this temple four aartis are done every day.  Special celebrations and poojas are done on festival days like Guru Poornima, Dasara Navarathri, and Datta Poornima. Annadanam or ditributiomn of food to devotees is done.  The temple is open from 6.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. This temple is located in Chthambarao street, Kotha Pet.

 Just before entering the way to the Sai baba temple, one can see Bala Sai Baba temple. In this temple also there are many beautiful statues of various gods near the entrance. In the central hall there is the life-like statue of Bala Sai Baba seated on a throne. Just before that shrine there is samadhi of Sri Bala Sai baba (1960-2018) and sacred padukas or sandals. There are many rooms on the upper floors to provide accommodation to devotees coming over here. The temple is open from 7.30 a.m. to 11.00 a.m. in the morning, and from 7.00 p.m. to 8.30 p.m. in the evening.

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    13th December, 2022                       Somaseshu Gutala

On my visit to Jogulamba Temple, Alampur (Jogulamba-Gadwal District)

                      

Jogulamba temple  entrance 

Goddess Jogulamba 

Vishwabrahma Temple

Jpogulamba Temple

Navabrahma Temples

Confluence place of the Tungabhadra River with the Krishna River

                 

Outer corridor of Balabrahmeshwara temple

                      

Mahishasuramardini in Balbrahmeshwara temple

Latticed stone window in Garudabrahma temple

                      

Sculpture of Indra in Svarga Brahma temple

                        

Svarga Brahma temple

                   

Saptamatrikas withn Ganesha in Kumarabrahma temple

Alampur (referred as “Hemalapuram” in Skandapurana) Jogulamba is the famous fifth Mahashakti peetha on the western banks of the Tungabhadra River near its confluence with the Krishna River. Here the upper teeth of Sati Devi fell and became a Shakti Peetha.  So, this place is called “Dakshina Kashi” or “Varanasi of the South”. The Tungabhadra River flows here from south to north. It is nearly 28kms from Kurnool. From Hyderabad it is 220 kms.

 In the same premises one can see the Navabrahma temples built by Badami Chalukyas in the seventh and eight centuries. The Jogulamba temple premises are very spacious. The Goddess is seen sitting on a corpse with a scorpion, a frog and a lizard on her head. Her body is emaciated and she looks ferocious. Sri Sankaracharya established Srichakram and pacified her by performing poojas. The original temple built in 7^th century was destroyed by Bahamani Sultans in 1390. The Vijayanagara king, Hari Hara Rayalu, stopped further attacks and fortified the temple. The idol and the guardian deities were shifted to Balabrhameshwara temple. In 2005 Jogulamba temple was re-built and the original idol was installed in the new temple. The guardian deities are still seen in Balbrahmeshwara temple.

 

The Navabrahma temples were shifted from their original place during construction of Srisailam hydro-electric project as the whole place was submerged. The temples were re-located to a higher ground. Chalukya kings constructed Nava Brahma temples temples in Northern architectural style between 650 and 750 A.D. The Sangameshwara temple, the oldest of all Chalukyan temples (610-642) built by Pulakesi was destroyed in 1390. It was re-built and shifted from Kudaveli to Alampur in 1979. According to Skanda Purana Brahma did penance here and regained his powers of creation from Lord Shiva. So, the idol of Shiva is called Balabrahmeshwara. The other Shiva idols were also named as Brahma temples. They are: Bala, Kaumara, Arka, Veera, Vishwa, Garuda, Swarga Padma and Taraka Brahmeshwara.

 

These temples resemble the rock-cut temples in western India with a simple tower, and a sanctum with a rectangular pillared hall in front. These temples have carvings on pillars and friezes showing legends from Hindu scriptures. The walls are decorated with sculptures of demi-gods like Gandharvas, figures of swans and pea-cocks. The Islamic invasions after 14^th century led to the construction of an Islamic fort, a mosque and a graveyard called Sha Ali Pedda Dargah amidst these temples between 15^th and 17^th centuries, using the walls and ruined masonry from the temple walls. So, worship by Hindus was stopped in these temples except in Bala Brahmeshwara temple.

 Inspired by the architecture of Nava Brahma temples, in later times, Rashtrakuta kings and Western Chalukya kings built a group of twenty-three temples called Papanasi temples between ninth and eleventh centuries in Papanasi village just 2.5 kms from Alampur. 

Worship is done only to Balabrahmeshwara Linga which has many dents and an opening on the top. Water flows form this opening. The shrines of Lord Narasimha, Mahishasuramardini, and various rishis are seen. In Garuda Brahma and Kumara Brahma temples, there are elaborate carvings on the pillars. The Arka Brahma and Padma Brahma temples are in a ruined state. The Taraka Brahma temple was built in Southern style with an inner sanctum, Antarala and a porch.   Sculptures and inscriptions recovered from Navabrahma temples and surroundings are preserved in the museum seen at the entrance to Bala Brahmeshwara temple. Many Kannada inscriptions of Badami Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas of Manyakheta and Kalyani Chalukyas are seen here. In 2019 the Government of India included this temple under the pilgrimage rejuvenation advancement drive scheme. The Navabrahma Temples are listed as an archaeological and architectural treasure by the Archaeological Survey of India. The temple timings are from 7.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. and from 2.00 p.m. to 8.30 p.m.

 The temple staff members are quite indifferent and unresponsive. They are not maintaining temple timings. In Jogulamba temple only one priest was appointed. He has to do all poojas without any assistant.  We have to wait for a long time. The menace of monkeys is quite disturbing. They even enter the temple hall and snatching fruits and bags from the devotees. The temple office is not decent-looking Even for huge donations, a small slip is issued without any prasadam or photo of the presiding deity. No boards are kept with clear directions so that devotees can see all Navabrahma temples. Employing guides will help devotees a lot in knowing about the historic importance of this temple complex. The temple surroundings are not neatly maintained. The Archaeological survey of India and the state government should collaborate in beautifying the temple surroundings. Basic facilities like drinking water, clean toilets and cafeteria should be provided. A book stall with gift items and pamphlets will be an added attraction. As the temple is not far away, many city people will prefer to visit this place if adequate amenities and transport facilities are provided. The museum should be shifted to a better location and the exhibits and sculptures should be showcased and labelled properly to give relevant information.

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     1st December, 2022                              Somaseshu Gutala