Thursday, August 16, 2018

On my visit to Kapaleeswara Temple, Mylapur, Chennai






               






      
                         



                               
Lord Kapaleeswara



                                           





Goddess Karpagambal

Sri Kapaleeswara temple is one of the oldest temples in Mylapur which has got rich historical and cultural heritage. The 125 feet –tall painted temple tower and colorful statues with intricate sculptural art fill our hearts with a sense of wonder.  Mylapur is a very primitive coastal town dating back to first century. Ptolemy (A.D.90—168) , a Greek geographer referred to this town in his book as “Millarpha”. Tiruvalluvar, the poet-saint, who wrote “Tirukkural” was born here in 4th century A.D. Great Saivite saints of 7th century like Sambandar and Appar sang about this temple in their hymns.

 This place is regarded as another “Kailasapuri” where many gods and saints 
worshipped the Lord and got salvation. Previously this place was called “Sukrapuri” and “Vedapuri’ where Sukracharya worshipped the Lord and got back his lost eye. Brahma’s fifth head was cut off by Lord Shiva when he became arrogant and thought himself as the supreme master of the whole universe. Later Brahma realized his mistake and did penance here after installing a Shiva lingam. He called the Lord as Kapaleeswara  and got back his power to create. In olden times Kapalikas, a sect of Saivite monks, lived here and in Thiruvottiyur. Hence the Lord might have been named as Kapaleeswara. Lord Rama worshipped the Lord here after he killed Ravana in the battle. Four Vedas came and worshipped the Lord here. Goddess Parvati was once cursed to become a pea-cock and she got liberated from the curse after worshipping the Lord. Along with the Lord she stayed here as Karpagambal (one who gives fulfills desires of devotees like wish-fulfilling tree). Lord Murugan received the spear (Shakti Vel) from Parvati here. This place was named as Mylapur as Parvati in the form of a Mayil (In Tamil it means a pea-cock) worshipped the Lord here. On the  northern wall of the  prakaram in the courtyard, there is a small shrine adjacent to a punnai tree, showing Karpagavalli worshipping Lord in the form of a pea-cock.

 Originally this temple was built by Pallava kings in 7th century at the spot where now San Thom cathedral (St.Thomas Cathedral Basilica) is seen. When the Portugese controlled this area (1522 to 1697), the temple was demolished in 1561. The present structure of the temple was constructed by Vijayanagara rulers of Tuluva dynasty (1491—1570). The structures of the old temple might have been used here since old inscriptions dating back to 12th century are seen on the walls of the new temple. The 125-foot tall east facing gopuram was built later in 1906. The San Thom cathedral was built by Portugese  in 16th century over the tomb of St. Thomas and later was rebuilt in 1893 by the British. But as per evidence,the actual body of St.Thomas was interred at Ortona Basilica in Italy. Besides St.Thomas who came to India in 4th century from Iran was the St.Thomas of Cana and not the apostle of St. Thomas as many believed.

 This temple has two entrances.  The shrine of Narthana Vinayaka is seen in front of the 125-feet tall eastern Raja Gopuram.  As one enters the hall, the shrine of Karpagambal is seen on one side facing south. A stone lion is found outside in front of this shrine.  The shrine of Kapaleeswara is seen facing west (Sadyojatha form of Shiva). On the northern wall of the main sanctum a small shrine of Durga is seen. On the back wall a small shrine of Lingodbhava Moorty is seen.  Just in front of this the 63 images of Nayanmars are found. On the southern wall the shrine of Dakshinamurty is seen.  In the halls of pillared mandapas there are shrines for Sundereswara, Jagadeeswara, Annamalaiar and Unnamalai. There is a beautiful shrine of Murugan (called Singarvelan) along with Valli and Devasena.

The smaller western gopuram faces the temple tank and is surrounded on four sides by broad mada veedhis (streets).  This temple tank was built by mayili Muthaiappa Mudaliar in 16th century.The shrine of Saneeswara is seen on the eastern prakaram. The platform with Navagrahas is of recent origin.

 This temple is open from 6.00 a.m. to 10.00 a.m. in the morning and from 5.30 p.m. to 10.00 p.m. in the evening. In this temple special poojas are performed on Monday, New Moon and Full Moon days. On Fridays special poojas are done in the shrine of Karpagavalli. Every day poojas are performed six times (6.00 a.m. 9.00 a.m. 1.00 p.m 5.00 p.m. 7.00 p.m. amd 9.00 p.m.)  There are four yearly festivals. Rahu Abhishekam is performed twice at 11.30 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. every day and two more times on designated days and timings.  The Arupathimoovar festival is grandly celebrated for ten days in March-April. The deities are taken in procession on different vahanas or mounts. On the eighth day the sixty-three Nayanmar idols follow the Kapaleeswarar idol in procession.

 The nearby places of visit are Marina Beach (1.7 kms), San Thomas cathedral (1km),Mundakaneeyaman temple (1km), Audi Kesava Perumal Peyalvar temple (1km) and Rama Krishna temple (1.3 kms). One should see this beautiful and spacious temple to get some idea about the marvelous art of Dravidian sculpture. You will also find many shops selling various types of Pooja material and refreshments by the way side.

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        17th August, 2018                               Somaseshu Gutala

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