My Visit to Umarudra Koteswara Swamy temple, Gudi Veedhi, Srikakulam

River View Park

During my one-day stay in Srikakulam I could not see many temples. Just before leaving that place I went to see this local temple located beside the old road bridge. Going through the narrow lane we saw this temple just beside the banks of the Nagavali River. On the way we also came across the River View park with  children’s  playground  and animal models. This park was built in 1999 with the M.P. funds sanctioned by the erstwhile M.P. Late Sri Yerram Naidu. The temple from the outside appeared to be an ordinary one without much artistic sculptures. But it has got mythological significance.

  Lord Balarama travelled towards south at the time of Mahabharata war as he wished not to take sides and fight in the war. When he came to Dandakaranya near the Bay of Bengal, he saw people suffering from drought and harassed by the demon Pralambasuti. To save the people from the demon and the drought, he killed Pralambasuti and dug with his plough (called nagali in Telugu) and made a river flow which is called “Nagavali”. The Nagavali River flows from Kalahandi (Orissa) and flows through Rayagad and Koraput districts of Orissa and Srikakulam and Vijayanagaram districts of Andhra Pradesh and joins the Bay of Bengal at Kallepalli near Mapasubandaru village in Srikakulam Diustrict.  He also set up five Shiva temples so that people may seek the permission of Shiva to see the Lord Kurmanatha in Srikurmam. Before that only gods used to worship at Srikurmam temple. These Shiva temples are called Pancha Linga Kshetras. They are: Payakeshwara Swamy in Rayagad(orissa), Someswara Swamy at Gumpa village near Parvatipuram, Sangameswara Swamy near Rajam, Uma Rudra Koteswara Swamy in Srikakaulam and Mani Nageswara swamy at Kallepalli village near the bay of Bengal. Balarama built the fifth temple (Patala Siddeswara Swamy) in front of the Kurmanatha Swamy temple.

 Sri Uma Ruidra Koteswara Swamy temple is the Kshetrapalika temple on the western border of Srikurmam temple. Another legend says that Lord Indra’s pride was humbled by Nandi when he tried to enter the temple by force after it was closed. Nandi hurled him with such power that Indra fell down exhausted and weak. He prayed to Lord Surya to give him relief from the pain. Surya touched him with his healing rays and made him recover his strength. Indra requested him to stay there and give relief to people. Surya directed him to find out his idol at the place where Lord Indra fell.  Indra dug the place and got the Surya idol and constructed a temple for Surya. This place is called Harasavalli (later called Arasavalli). Indra also dug a lake with his Vajra near the temple and it is called Indra Pushkarini. Indra worshipped Lord Umarudra later to get relief from his sins. Thus there is close connection between Arasavalli temple and Uma Rudreswara Temple.

 This temple was built with Salihundam red stine in South Indian style. Pujas in this temple are done as per Panchayatana Agama Sastra tradition. This temple was first built by Lord Balarama five thousand years ago. Later it was re-built by Magatapalli Kamayya Setti of Konada village, Vijayanagaram Dist. in 1774. Since 2001, renovations are being done by Samkrg Pistons (a local factory) and Krushnam Vande Jagadgurum (a local spiritual organization). In the Mukha mandapa we can see a very big and beautiful statue of Nandi . In the inner sanctum there is a big idol of Shiva in Linga form. There is a shrine for Shiva’s consort Rajarajeswari in the Mukha mandapa just on the left side of the sanctum. The temple was very much crowded when we went there. Special poojas are done here on Mondays and during Kartika month and on Maha Shiva Ratri festival. The temple timings are from 6.00 a.m. to 11.00 a.m. and from 5.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. if you visit Srikurmam take time to see this important Shiva temple also.

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          10th January, 2020                              Somaseshu Gutala

MY Visit to Srikurmam (Srikakulam Dist.) A.P.

Temple tower

Temple's pillared mandapa

Kurmanatha Swamy in the sanctum

The main deity in the sanctum

Swetha Pushkarini

Sculture of Durga 

Secret passage leading to Kashi (now closed)

                       

Vishnu's sculpture

 

Vinayaka's sculpture

 

Sculptures 

  

Mural painting on the walls

    

mural painting

   

Foot prints of Sri Chaitanya Prabhu

                 

Sculpture on the wall

Marks of limestone mix seen on the walls

Star tortoises in the tortoise park

Commemorative stamp issued on Sri Kurmam temple 

This is a unique temple where Lord Vishnu manifested Himself in the incarnation of the divine tortoise or Kurma who helped the gods and demons when they churned the milky ocean using the Mandara Mount as a churning device. This temple is regarded as one of the important Vaishnavite holy places. The eastern Ganga kings respected this place as their Guru Peetha. This temple is not only regarded as Moksha Sthana (place for salvation) but also as a Pitru Kshetra (holy place of ancestors). So many people perform rituals for their ancestors here which will give them salvation. Narahari Theertha, disciple of Madhwacharya, created the office of Bhoga Parikasha (religious head) to supervise the temple activities. He later built a temple for Yogananda Narasimha in front of this temple. According to temple inscriptions Narasimhadasa Pandita and Purushottama Deva served as Bhoga Parikshas here. 

This temple’s history goes back to times immemorial up to Krita Yuga of 28^th Maha Yuga of Vaivaswatha Manvantara, nearly twenty lakh years ago according to the Vedic calendar. According to legends Swetha Chakravarthi in a fit of infatuation tried to make love to his wife, Vishnu Priya when she was  in  Vrata (religious rite) on Shuddha Ekadashi day. When she prayed to God, Lord Vishnu sent a rushing stream to separate her from her husband who was carried away by the flowing waters to a hill called Swetha Giri. Sage Narada appeared there and taught him Kurma Narayana Mantra and advised him to do penance. The king was blessed with the appearance of Lord Narayana in His Kurma Avatar. As per the king’s wish the Lord stayed there. According to Padma Purana Lord Brahma consecrated the deity with Gopala Yantra. A pushkarini or pond was created by Lord Vishnu using His Sudarshan Chakra to heal the king who became very weak. This Pushkarini is called Swetha Pushkarini or Sudarshana Kund from which Vishnu’s consort emerged with her mount Garuda. She is called Kurma Nayaki. In the middle of the temple pond a small mandapam called “Narasimha Mandapam” is seen. Later this temple was re-built many times in different periods. It is believed that bathing in this holy pond on Magha Suudha Chavithi relieves one from many sins.

The Parikrama Mandapa is said to have been built in 2^nd century A.D. The sanctum or Garbha Griha was built in 7^th century A.D. The first outer Prakaram or compound wall was built in 13^th century. According to historical evidence this temple was built by the eastern Ganga king Ananthavarman Choda Ganga in 1281 A.D. Previously the deity was worshipped as Kurmeshwara in Shaivite tradition. In eleventh century Sri Ramanuja visited this place and converted it to a Vaishnavite temple with the support of the eastern Ganga King. It is said that the Lord turned to the west to give darshan to Ramanuja. Hence in this temple there are two dwaja sthambas, one in the east and the other one in the west, a unique feature not found in many Vishnu temples. The devotees have direct access to inner sanctum here to have the darshan of the Lord. The idol of Kurmanadha is made of special black stone called Saligrama. The deity is 2.5 feet long consisting of three structures with the head facing west and the rear part marked with swirling lines. The Utsava deities Govinda Raja, Sri Devi and Bhu Devi were found in Swetha Pushkarini in twelfth century. The Utsava deities of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Sita were later presented by Narahari Theertha. All these vigrahas or idols are seen in a small room near the sanctum and are worshipped daily. Beside the main sanctum the shrine of Maha Lakshmi (Kurma Nayaki) is seen.  

Accroding to Puranas many great persons visited this place. Rama’s sons Lava and Kusha came to this place and worshipped the Lord. Sage Durvasa also visited this place with his disciples. Lord Bala Rama also came to this place. Great spiritual teachers like Adi Sankaracharya in 8^th century, Sri Ramanujacharya in 11th century and Narahri Theertha in 13^th century and Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu in 1512, visited this place and worshipped the Lord.

 This temple was built in the style fusing both Andhra and Kalinga styles of architecture (Gandharva Shilpa Sampradaya). The Vimana or tower was built in Dravidian pyramid-shaped style. The superstructure has an octagonal sikhara (summit) adorned by a kalasa. The mandapa has 108 monolithic stone pillars with different carvings and designs with none resembling the others. Each pillar was shaped in its own original way. Some inscriptions related to royal lineages from 11^th to 19^th centuries are seen on these pillars. In Niches or Koshtas around the temple images of Vishnu, Gaja Lakshmi, Ganesh, Durga, Trivikrama, Narasimha, along with Ashta Dikpalakas (lords of eight directions) are beautifully carved though some of them were damaged. One can see nearly forty-one beautiful mural paintings on the temple walls just like the paintings in Ajanta caves. In May, 2011, the A.P.State Archaeology took measures to preserve these mural paintings. To protect this temple from foreign invaders during 14th and 15^th centuries, the locals applied limestone mix on the entire temple and camouflaged it to look like a hillock. Even now these marks of lime are noticed on the walls of the temple.

 In the temple premises within an enclosure (Tortoise Park) more than a hundred star tortoises are kept and taken care of the Govt. of A.P. and the N.G.O. Green Mercy organization.The star tortoises are land animals found in India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. But these pretty creatures covered with dust were crawling in a congested space where a few leaves of greens are thrown. Of course the temple authorities need sufficient money for the up-keep of these animals. It would be better if they are kept in a spacious area with sufficient greenery and a pond in the middle so that they can move freely and get adequate attention. At present this temple is managed by the A.P. Hindu religious and Endowment Board and the Gajapati Rajus of Vijayanagaram are the temple trustees. On 11^th April, 2013, the Indian Postal Department issued a stamp featuring this temple .

This temple follows both Shaivite and Vaishnavite traditions of worship. Abhishekam is done every day. Nitya Kalyanam and Nitya Bhogam are done. The annual Kalyonotsavam is done on Vaisakha Suddha Ekadashi. Kurma Jayanti (Jyesta Bahula dwadashi) and Vaikunta Ekadashi are also celebrated along with three day Dolostavam. Kamadahanam is celebrated on the first day followed by Padiya and Dolotsavam.  The opening hours of this temple are from 6.00 a.m. to 11.00 a.m. and from 3.00 p.m. to 8.00 p.m. This temple is at a distance of 50 kms from Srikakulam and 130 kms from Visakhapatnam. On the way to this temple Patala Siddeshwara’s temple is seen. People believe that one has to visit this temple before entering the main temple of Kurma Nadha.

                   

            January 2, 2020                      Somaseshu Gutala



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At Hotel Royal Palace, Bhadrachalam

 

This hotel is very near to Sri Sita Rama Chandra Swamy temple, just less than half a km. We went very late in the afternoon. Two hours before reaching Bhadrachalam I informed the hotel manager about my booking details and was surprised to learn that the hotel authorities do not honor the booking made through the travel agency I had chosen. However they told me that I could book rooms by paying the amount again. I made many phone calls to the travel agency to explain my plight, but received only a dry and indifferent response stating that the agent would contact me soon. As we were going through forest route we had no signals to communicate with the agent. At last the agent contacted me and assured me that my paid amount would be refunded soon. The receptionist at the hotel informed me that they had told the travel agency people many times not to book tourists and send them to their hotel. Still they go on their booking spree without caring about the troubles faced by the tourists. So it would be better to contact the hotel people before trusting these travel agencies who are too eager to book rooms and grab money just for their commissions. Better select a hotel where one can pay at the time of check-in.

The hotel rooms are o.k. with facilities like free wifi, ward robe, cable T.V. and hot water. But there is no phone facility. Though it is called a three-star hotel, except a piece of soap no other accessories were provided. It would be better if they provide a dental kit, shampoos and a coffee-heater. There is no in-house restaurant in this hotel. Of course there are many small restaurants in the vicinity. There is free parking space in the cellar. There are nearly 25 rooms spread over three floors with lift facility. Laundry and doctor-on call and twenty four hour front desk service are available here. As this is a popular pilgrimage center, it would be better if some pamphlets and photos are displayed in the hotel giving information about this temple. The check-in and check-out timings are from 12.00 noon to 12.00 noon. The nearby temples are Sri Krishna temple, Abhayanjaneya temple, and Ayyappa temple. The Godavari Ghat is also not so far.

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                 27th December, 2019                           Somaseshu Gutala

At Laven Hotels, Rajahmundry

Front view of the Laven Hotels

Reception Counter

Dining Area

Inner View of the Room

Banquet hall

This three-star hotel is conveniently located opposite APSRTC Complex on third and fourth floors of Murali Krishna Manor, Ayyappa Nagar. The railway station is five kms and the airport is 15kms from here. As it is in the center of the city one can get transport facility very easily. This hotel is just 4kms from Pushkar Ghat and ISKON temple. There is free car parking facility in the cellar. Of course there is paid airport shuttle service in the hotel. There are nearly twenty deluxe A.C. rooms in the hotel with facilities like lift, free wifi, T.V. attached bath room, wardrobe, telephone and room service facility. Laundry. Doctor-on-call and event hall are other facilities here.  The staff are quite courteous and attend to our needs promptly.

 The bath rooms are very small and the wash basin is also not so convenient to use. A big mirror with a wide washbasin will be better.  At the reception counter also the swiping machine did not function properly and so I had to pay the room tariff in cash. As it is a three-star hotel, at least one bottled water has to be provided in each room. There is a restaurant that provides Asian food. I did not avail the facility as I paid only for accommodation. The room tariff is reasonable and varies depending on the availability and demand. The normal check-in and check-out timings are from 12.00 noon to 11.00 a.m. For early check-in one has to inform the hotel authorities. Though not so spacious, this hotel is a nice place located conveniently in the center of the city.

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    23rd December, 2019                               Somaseshu Gutala

At Varam Residency, Srikakulam

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Classic Room

                                                             Banquet hall

 

This hotel is located on Palakonda Road near the bus stand. As it is on the main road all places are accessible such as shopping area and tourist places. Srikakulam is a small town with many shops and many hospitals. I saw many clinics, medical shops and dental hospitals on the side of the main road. This hotel has nearly forty rooms spread over four floors. The rooms are small with simple necessities. Though the hotel is a three-star hotel, only soap is given free, with towels and bed room coverings. The bath rooms are also not so well maintained. The T.V. has very few channels. The staff are quite courteous and helpful. When I have trouble with land phone they offered another room as an alternative, but I did not shift since I spent only one day there.

 The free breakfast is very good and tasty. They also give a newspaper and room service is also very prompt. This hotel has facilities like free cellar car parking, laundry and dry cleaning service, restaurant, free wifi , lift and concierge. It would be better if the bath rooms are well-maintained and accessories like dental kit and bottled water are supplied. As the climate is very hot, the hotel authorities should provide bed sheets along with blankets as some may feel discomfortable with thick blankets in the hot weather. Many pilgrimage centers like Arasavalli (4kms), Sri Kurmam(15kms) and Sri Mukha Lingeswara temple (50 kms) are nearby. The check-in and check-our timings are from 12.00 noon to 12.oo noon. The hotel rates are also quite affordable. This budget hotel is a suitable place for tourists as it is very close to bus stand and other tourist places.

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              19th December, 2019                             Somaseshu Gutala

My Visit to Talpagiri Ranganatha Swamy Temple, Nellore (A.P.)

        

                                          Ancient Gopuram on the way to the Penna River

Paintings on the wall

Statue of Sri Ramanujacharya outside the temple

Vaikunta Dwaram on the northern side

Main Idol Lord Ranganatha Swamy in the sanctum

Hall of Mirrors (Addala Mandapam)

                                     Painting of vatapatrasayi on the ceiling in Addala Mandapamu

Way to the riverside

     

Entrance to the temple

This temple is one of the ancient temples in Nellore built on the southern bank of the Penna river. This temple is located at a distance of 3.2 kms from Nellore. The area where this temple exists is called “Ranganayakula Peta.”According to Skanda Purana, sage Kasyapa performed a yagna here on Ekadasi day and Lord Vishnu appeared before him and stayed there. Adi Sesha, the divine serpent came here in the form of a hill, called “Talpa Giri’ as Adi sesha, the couch on which the Lord sleeps, exists here as a hill. In the “Aranya Kanda” of the epic Ramayana it is mentioned that Lord Rama visited this temple during his period of exile.

 This temple was built by Pallava kings during seventh and eighth centuries. The present main shrine and extensions were built by Chola kings in between 1178 and 1216 as per the stone inscriptions found in the temple premises. The 70-foot tall main tower (Gaali Gopuram) was built in 1781. The seven-tiered tower looks beautiful with many sculptures of gods and goddesses erected on the tower at different levels. The seven golden kalasams on the top of the temple tower were erected in 1949. In the sanctum the 10-foot long idol of Ranganatha is seen in reclining position (Pallikonda Perumal in Tamil) on the divine serpent Adisesha. Near His feet 26-inch long idols of Sri Devi and Bhu Devi are seen. The idol of Lord Brahma is seen seated on the lotus rising from Lord’s navel. The idol is facing west towards the river Penna.  The thousand holy names of the Lord are seen painted on the outer walls so that the devotee can recite them while going round the temple. The ancient gopuram built on the west side is visible on the way to the river from the temple. The present tall tower is seen on the east side.

 The shrine of Rajya Lakshmi (Ranga Nayaki) is seen on the southern side of the main temple. The shrine of Andal or Goda devi is on the northern side of the main shrine. The Northern doorway called Vaikunta dwaram is seen just beside Goda Devi’s shrine. On Vaikuinta Ekadashhi the Lord gives darshan to devotees from this side. The hall of mirrors called “Addala Mandapam” built in 1929 is seen on the southern side of the main temple. In this hall temple rituals and ceremonies are performed. The hall is decked with many painted frescoes depicting the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu, the episode of Gajendra Moksham (Lord Vishnu saving the elephant from the clutches of the crocodile) and the pictures of Alwars  done in Tanjavur style. The colorful fresco of Lord Krishna sleeping on a floating leaf called “Vatapatrasayi” is seen on the ceiling. The other sub-temples are the shrines of Alwaar Sannidhi, Lord Narasimha and Lord Venkateshwara. In the temple premises there is a tree called “Santana Vriksha’. Devotees tie a piece of cloth with offerings as swings to the branches of this tree as they believe that they will be blessed with progeny by doing so. Near this tree there is a tunnel once used by sages to reach this temple.

 In this temple poojas and other rituals are done as per Paancharatra Agama. Special poojas are done during Brahmostava (between March and April) and on Vaikunta Ekadashi. Every day Tirumanjanam, Sahasra Namarchana (worshipping the Lord with one thousand names), Asthottaranamarachana( worshipping the Lord with one hundred and eight names, Nitya Kalyanam are done. The temple timings are from 6.00 a.m. to 12.00 noon and from 2.00 p.m. to 9.00 p.m. As this temple is located in the north side of Sri Rangam, this holy temple is regarded as the “Sri Rangam of the North”. Just on the way to river side there is a shrine for the great poet sitting Tikkana who was said to have translated the fifteen cantos of the epic Mahabharata in this temple. The view of the Penna River from the temple gives a panoramic view of the city. But the waters of the river are not so fresh and clean. The river near the temple should be maintained pure and clean. Many devotees are seen lighting oil lamps near the entrance. This practice should be stopped as it causes inconvenience to visitors entering the temple.

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  10th December, 2019                                          Somaseshu Gutala