My Visit to Chota Imambara ( Imambara Hussainabad Mubarak), Lucknow

The metal figure at the entrance

                           

                                                         Entrance Gate to Chota Imambara

                               

Inside View of the Central Hall

Various Tazias in the hall

   

                                                  Beautiful carvings and calligraphy on pillars and walls

Chota Imambara - Inside View

The beautiful View of Chandliers

Chota Imambara-- front view with flowing stream and garden

Tazias on the platform in the main hall

                                                          The throne of Mohd. Ali Shah

                      

                   

              

                                                                      Crown of Mohd. Ali Shah

Mausoleum of Zinat Asiya, Nawab's daughter

Treasury facing Zinat Asiya's Mosque

Just two kms away from Bada Imambara on the west side, Chota Imambara is seen which is admired for its artistic beauty as Palace of Lights. It is located on Husanabad Road in Daulaganj in Lucknow. This was built by Mohd.Ali Shah, the Nawab of Awadh in 1838 as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims to celebrate Muharram and other festivals. Azim-ullah-Khan, Superintendent of ordnance and Buildings, supervised the construction of this gold-plated building with many large and smaller domes with ribbed design. The Nawab in order to provide employment to workers during the severe drought period undertook the construction of this monument.

 The significance of the holy five is symbolized here by five main doorways. There are two halls and a platform (Shehnasheen) on which the Zarih(the replica of the protective grill that is kept over the grave of Imam Hussain at Karbala, Iraq) is seen. The main hall or Azhakhana is a large green and white bordered hall with a gilded dome decorated with chandeliers imported from Belgium, golden edged mirrors and crystal glass lamp stands. On the south of the main hall is the main platform with arches where the banners and flags of the small army of Imam Hussain are seen. A number of Tazias made of silver, ivory and sandalwood are kept on the main platform or Shahnasheen. There is also a big Tazia that is made of wax and tinsel paper kept in the main hall. 

The tombs of Nawab Mohd. Alishah and his mother are seen in the central hall. Their bodies are buried below the floor in the basement of the central hall. In the central hall the royal throne, the red crown of the king and the silver Mimbar or pulpit on which the orator is seated when he addresses audience are also seen. On the walls and pillars of the hall, Quran verses are written in Islamic calligraphy in the shape of a tiger, a horse and a bird, fixed in wooden frames. An antique Persian clock and a glass fish tank from Japan are other curious objects found in this spacious hall.

 The way to this Imambara is embellished with a flowing stream flowing through the center of the garden. Water for fountains and other water bodies is channelized from Gomti River. This building constructed in Indo-Islamic and Persian style has a Charbagh pattern—a single stream running through the center of the garden.

 There are two triple-arched gateways on the east and west as entrances. In between them is the main gate with a heavy door. . The three-storied main entrance gate is seen with a bronze fish fixed at the top of the arched gateway. This bronze fish works as a weather vane one finds the sacred five emblems mounted atop the main gate to signify the holy five members of Prophet Mohammad’s family. Opposite the main gate is Naubat Khana where large drums were beaten to announce the hours of the day. Two metal Grecian figures in bronze connected to spikes on the top of the gate act as lightning conductors.

 On the left side of the main building is seen a mosque with two minarets , a replica of Taj Mahal, where the tombs of Nawab’s daughter, Zinat Asiya, his son and her husband along with the tomb of Nawab’s consort are found. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside the mosque. On the other side a similar structure facing the mausoleum was built to maintain architectural symmetry and balance. This building was used as treasury. Outside the Imambara is a watchtower called Satkhanda or tower of seven stories. But only four stories were seen as the king passed away and the construction work was stopped. This tower was built between 1837 and 1842. On the model of Qutub Minar and the tower of Pisa this tower was constructed in Indo-Islamic style and was meant for lunar observation.

Mohd.Ali Shah and his queen Malka Afaq Jahan deposited 26 lakhs with East India Company to form Hussianabad Endowment Trust to look after the religious buildings they had built and for observance of Muharrum and other connected functions. To the left of the main gate, Shahi Imam (Royal bath) with a complicated system of drainage is seen which supplies hot water to the gigantic bath tub. This building has been renovated in later times. Tickets purchased at Bada Imambara gives one access to Chota Imambara and Picture Gallery. Alexis Soltykoff, the Russian prince, who visited this place in 1841, described this monument as the “Kremlin of India.”Really as someone said, this monument is “ small in name, but big in wonder.” There are many worth seeing monuments nearby such as Jama Masjid, Clock Tower and Rumi Dawaja. The opening hours of this Imambara are from 8.00 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.           

                              **************************************    

  13th November, 2019                                         Somaseshu Gutala

MY VISIT TO BADA IMAMBARA ( ASAFI IMAMBARA), LUCKNOW

             

Roomi Gate (Turkish Gate)

                       

                           

Bada Imamabara

                     

Central Hall

Bada Imambara Dome

                             

View of Upper Chambers

       

Chinese hall

Place where Tazias are kept

Bhul Bhulaiya (Maze)

The tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula

                  

Shahi Baoli (StepWell)

                    

Hussainabad Clock Tower

           

Lucknow was ruled by Awadh Nawabs for nearly sixteen decades. Here we still find the glorious tradition and heritage of Nawabs in the form of great mansions, palaces, mosques and gardens. Bada Imambara is the star attraction and most popular historic monument in Lucknow. Every day nearly three thousand people visit this beautiful mansion with spacious courtyards, carvings and massive arches. The word Imambara means the residence of Imam or a Muslim priest who leads prayers in a mosque. So it is a prayer hall where religious congregations are held through the month of Muharram and on other important occasions by Shia Muslims. In cities like Cairo, Aleppo and Baghdad this type of prayer hall is seen as an annexe to the main Mosque.

  In 1722 the Mughal emperor Muhummad Shah made Mohd. Amin Masawi or Sadat Ali Khan I as Governor of Awadh. Sadat was the grandson of a rich trader from Khorasan in Iran who migrated to India. Thus the rule of Awadh Nawabs (a native Governor appointed by Mughal emperors) began. In 1775 the fourth Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula ascended the throne. He shifted the capital from Faizabad to Lucknow.

During his rule there was a severe famine almost for one decade. To provide employment to starving people Asaf-ud-Daula undertook the construction of this Imambara which was started in 1784 and completed in 1798. Nearly twenty thousand people were employed to complete this huge mansion. The Nawab spent nearly one crore rupees for this construction. Every year he spent four to five lakhs to beautify and maintain this building. He selected an architect from Delhi, Kifayitullah, who used his talent and skills to construct this building in ornamental Mughal style.

The western entrance called “Roomi Gate or Turkish Gate” is the west-facing 59 feet high entrance gate with three arches done with lavish decorations.  The  arches have the royal insignia of dual fish carved on them. It was built in ancient Awadhi style and resembles the gateway at Istanbule, Turkey, once the capital of the Roman Byzantine Empire. The word “Roomi” is the changed version of the word “Rome”. On the top of the three-storied Darwaja, a small octagonal place called “Chattri or Umbrella” is seen looking over both sides of the gate. A staircase leads up to it. This place was used for vigilance or for ligting up the gate. Four minarets are seen at four corners.  The 67-foot tall Husainabad clock tower adjacent to Roomi gate was constructed by Nawab Nasir-ud-Din Haider in 1881 to mark the arrival of Sir George Couper, the first Lieutenant Governor of the United Provinces of Awadh. The eastern entrance gate was destroyed by the British in 1858 when this building was converted to a military fort.

The roof of Imambara was made from rice husk and the roof has been put together with interlocking bricks without any beam or girder. No wood or metal has been used in this building. This is a unique building with arched entrances without having any pillars for support. Unlike the Mughals who used red stone, the Nawabs of Lucknow used limestone which is delicate and can be carved with designs of creepers, various flowers and intricate designs. This building has three halls—China hall with decorative domes, Persian hall with the graves of Nawab’s family and Tazias (replicas of the tombs) of Imam Hussain and Hasan who sacrificed their lives at Karbala in 680 A.D. and the Kharbooza Hall the domed ceiling of which is shaped like a watermelon.  The Persian Hall is the most spacious hall measuring 170x55x15 feet without any supporting columns. In the center of large vaulted Persian hall the graves of Asf-Ud-Daula, his wife and the architect, Khifayatullah are seen.

 Just above the central hall one can see eight chambers with different heights permitting the space above to be re-constructed as a labyrinth or maze (called Bhul Bhulaiya) with interconnected one thousand passage ways through 489 identical doorways. This maze supports the weight of the building. Our guide told us that the royal ladies used to come through secret underground passage to attend the prayers conducted in the central hall. People say that there are many secret passages leading to Gomti River and even up to Agra and Allahabad. It would be better to enter the maze with the help of a guide as there is a risk of losing one’s way in the labyrinth with so many passages and doors.

  On the left side of this building there is a step well of Pre-Nawabi Era with five stories called ‘Shahi Baoli” built in Indo-Islamic style. It is a water reservoir used for supplying water to people. This reservoir is connected to Gomti River. Only the topmost two stories of the step well are seen and the three stories are under water. On the right side of the building there is Asifi Masjid where only Muslims are permitted. This monument is open from 6.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. One should go in decent dress to visit this sacred religious place. The entry fee is rs.50/- per person and Rs.500/- for NRIs. It would be better to take the help of a guide. We bought a ticket from U.P. Tourism office at 400/- per person. They will provide the vehicle along with the guid e. We need not pay the entrance and parking fee. Of course only historic monuments are included in the schedule and not temples or parks. This monument is really a worth seeing construction with many unique features and is an outstanding specimen of the Indo-Mughal architecture.

                                ************************************

   1st November, 2019                                  Somaseshu Gutala

  

My Visit to Naimisharanya

 

 Chakra Thirth Kund

            

Chakra Narayana

Badri Narayana Temple

                 

Bhuteshwar Mahadev Mandir

Sri Lalita Devi Mandir

     

Sri Lalita Devi -- ancient idol

         

Sri Lalita Devi inner sanctum

Sri Mahvishnu

Sri Satyanarayan Mandir

Mishrik Dadhichi Kund

Shringi Rishi shrine

Vyas Gaddi

Hanuman Gharhi

Hanuman Gharhi

Havan Kund

                                                                         Trishakti Dham

                                                                        Deva Puri

Naimisharanya is considered as the holiest place where many gods and sages stayed and did penance beside the banks of the Gomati River.  During Satya Yuga Naimisharanya is considered as the holiest place; in Tretha Yuga Pushkar as a sacred thirth; during Dwapara Yuga, Kurukhetra as the holy place and during Kali Yuga, the Ganges as most sacred thirth. This fact shows Naimisharanya as the most ancient sacred place revered by all sages and gods. This place is mentioned in many legends and Puranas glorfying its purity and spiritual grandeur. It is said that one who does penance here for twelve years goes to Brahma Loka.

The name of the place suggests that once it was a forest where many sages and saints stayed doing penance or composing sacred works. Sage Vyasa stayed here and composed puranas and classified Vedas. He taught the sacred Vedas and Puranas to his disciples like Suta and others. Suta also expounded Puranas to his disciples like Vaishampayana and other 88,000 sages and disciples. The sacred 5000-year old banyan tree is still seen here where sage Vyasa taught his disciples. Just nearby there is a holy shrine with an elevated conical seat called “Vyasa gaddi.” One who meditates and does yoga here can get rid of his incurable diseases. Similarly one can also see “Suta gaddi” the place where Suta enlightened his disciples on Puranas and other holy lore. Manu chose this place for performing penance for 23,000 years along with his spouse Satarupa to get Vishnu as their beloved son. Just near Vyasa Gaddi one can see a shrine for Lord Satyanarayana since Veda Vyas narrated Satyanarayana Vrata Katha here to Suta who in turn told it to Shaunak and other rishis.

The word Naimisha also suggests the legend in which Lord Vishnu was said to have killed Durjaya and his army of demons in a nimish or moment. Lord Vishnu also killed Gayasura here. The head of the demon fell at Badri (Kapali Gaya), his feet at Gaya (Pada Gaya) and his middle part of the body fell at Naimisharanya (Nabhi Gaya). So many people come here to perform Shradh or tarpanams (oblations) to their forefathers for their salvation. Lord Rama performed Ashwamadha Yagna here after killing Ravana. This Ghat is called Ashwamedh Ghat. Some people say that Sita entered the earth at the same place.  One can see shrines for Narada and Shringi Rishi nearby.  Dadhichi Kund  is seen at Misrikh at a distance of ten kms from here. Dadhichi sacrificed his life so that Indra could prepare his weapon Vajra and other divine weapons from the spine and bones of Dadhichi’s body to kill Vritrasura.

At present one cannot see any forest dotted with hermitages. Naimisharanya is a small town in Sitapur district at a distance of 32 kms from Sitapur and 90 kms from Lucknow. Of course we can see lush greenery and huge trees while passing by the road. A cluster of temples are seen around a circular Kund called Chakra Thirth. According to legend at the beginning of Kali Yug, sages approached Brahma and requested Him to show a sacred place where they can do penance and perform yagnas. Lord Brahma then sent a wheel rolling and asked them to stay at the place where the wheel stops. The wheel rolled away at great speed and stopped at this place cutting the ground below. A powerful spring of water emerged from the ground in circular shape. The sages prayed to Lord Brahma to stop this disaster. Brahma in turn prayed to Lalita Devi who at once controlled the flow of water. So this pond formed by the rolling Chakra or wheel is called Chakra Thirth. It said that all holy rivers are present in the waters of this pond. Hence many pilgrims take holy bath here and perform rites to their forefathers. Especially on Full Moon and New Moon days many devotees come here to take holy bath and perform rituals and worship. The steps near the Chakra Thirth are very slippery covered with moss. there is a risk of people slipping there. So the steps of the ghat should be maintained neat and clean.

 Around Chakra Thirth one can see many shrines and holy places. In Bhooteshwar Mahadev temple one can see a big Mukha Linga with small idols of Maha Vishnu, Ganesh, Kartikeya, Surya, Kali, Dadhichi and Lord Brahma. In Gokarnanath temple the Linga is seen in a small pit. In Badrinath temple we see a bright yellow colored shrine with a pillared corridor. In Suryanarayana temple a Shiva Linga with a Srichakra carved behind it is seen.

Lord Vishnu is seen here sitting with one leg folded crosswise with attenadants serving him. Naimisharanya is considered as one of the 108 holy Vaishanavite Divya Khetras where Lord Vishnu manifested Himself in His effulgent form. The holy shrine of Lalita Devi is a must visit as She is the presiding deity of this holy place and one’s visit is not complete without having her darshan. Inside the sanctum a small marble idol is seen draped in red clothes. Just near the exit the original idol of Lalita Devi seen beside a sacrificial altar. The pandas pester us demanding not less than 500/- for offering coconut to the goddess. This place is treated as one of the 108 Shakti Peethams where the heart of Sati fell when Lord Vishnu cut off the body of Sati with His Sudarshan Chakra when Sati immolated Herself in sacrificial fire during Daksha’s yagna. As per Brahma’s request Lalita Devi appeared here for destruction of demons here.

 Just near Chakra Thirth there is a place called Pandav Khila where Pandavas stayed during their exile period. This is the place where King Virat had a fort. In 1305 this fort was re-built by a Hindu minister of Allauddin Khilji. Now only a room is seen with statues of five Pandava brothers along with Draupadi and Lord Krishna. Just near this place Hanuman Garhi is seen with a huge statue of Lord Hanuman bearing Ram and Lakshman on his shoulders. Lord Hanuman is said to have emerged from Patal Lok here after conquering Abhiravan.

 A little distance from here one can also see Sri Balaji temple, Sri Trishakti Dham temple and Devpuri temple with 108 idols of various gods and goddesses. So one should spend at least one or two days to see all these holy shrines. We spent only a few hours here and so did not have enough time to see all these holy temples. The serene atmosphere with mighty trees and ponds will surely impress any devotee with a sense of tranquility and immense devotion. But the authorities should streamline the organization so that devotees are not chased and harassed by the priests who always ask for money without performing rituals and poojas in a proper way. This creates a very bad and disappointing impression on devotees who come here with so many expectations. The temple timings of Naimisharanya are from 5.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m. and from 4.00 p.m. to 9.00 p.m. Many great saints and sages visited this place. Saint Tulsidas is said to have composed Ramcharithmanas here. Saint Surdas resided at this place. Shankaracharya during his tour of India visited this place. Let us try to preserve the sanctity of this place where great Sages and Maharshis stayed and did penance and wrote great works and puranas.

                                             ***************************************

        18th October, 2019                                                           Somaseshu Gutala

MY VISIT TO HANUMANSETU TEMPLE

 

This is one of the most popular and frequently visited Hanuman temples in Lucknow. Other hanuman temples in Lucknow are the New Hanuman temple at Aliganj. Dakshinamukhi Hanuman temple in Hazrathganj and Chhachhi Kuan Hanuman temple in Aliganj. This Hanuman temple is seen on the side of the new bridge which comnnects Hazrathganj and the Lucknow University. Hence this temple is called Sankatmochan Hanuman Sethu Mandir. Previously the old temple was near the old bridge called ‘Monkey Bridge.” Swami Neem Karauli Baba established this old temple.  In 1960 the bridge collapsed due to heavy floods. The temple was also washed away. But miraculously nothing happened to the idol inside the temple. A new bridge was constructed and the idol was installed by Karauli Baba in the new temple on January26, 1967. (Basant Panchami). Baba’s chamber can still be seen in the old temple at a lower level from the new temple.

 The design of the new temple and the new bridge were done by Sri Kanvide Rai & Co.The 6.5 foot idol was made of a single marble stone and was sculpted in Jaipur.  The oval shaped pooja hall can accommodate nearly 250 people to participate in Pooja activities. On the walls beautiful mural sculptures of Ram and Lakshman are seen on one side while Rama, Lakshman and other vanara army are seen performing Shiv pooja on the other side. In the inner sanctum the idol of Hanuman is seen standing majestically revealing Ram and Sita enshrined within his bosom. In this temple many devotees write their problems and submit them at the feet of the Lord. Before closing hour all these letters are read by the priest and the devotees believe that the Lord would listen to their problems and help them in solving their personal issues.

 Special poojas are done on every Tuesday of Jyesht month (May and June) considered to be a very auspicious time for worshipping Hauman. Abhishek, Havan, recital of Ramcharitmanas , bhajans and cultural performances are performed during this period. Many people offer wheat, sweet puri and jaggery as Prasad to the Lord. Every Tuesday nearly 30,000 devotees come here for darshan. Prasad is distributed to all people in an orderly manner. Annadan (distribution of food) is done for more than one hundred poor people every day. The temple also runs a free homeopathic dispensary to serve the poor people. The opening hours of this temple are from 5.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m. and from 4.00 p.m. to 9.00 p.m. Many political dignitaries and other celebrities visit this temple to worship this powerful deity.

                              +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

            13th october, 2019                                    Somaseshu Gutala

My Visit to Mankameshwar Temple, Lucknow

                         

                         

                             

In Lucknow most of the temples are small with simple construction without much sculptures and carvings. Most of them were re-constructed by Mahants with the co-operation of philanthropists and devotees. This temple though small has wonderful frescoes carved on friezes on four sides of the temple tower. We find the carvings of Durga, Kalabhairav and Hanuman emerging out of the mouth of the demoness Surasa. This temple is located between Hasanganj and Daliganj area in the heart of the city on the left bank of the Gomati River. This temple is managed by Mahant Devagya Puri (Arunima Singh), the first woman Mahant in Lucknow. She is a very active person taking part in social service programs like swatchhata and in maintaining communal harmony.

 According to legends King Lakshman came here after leaving Sita in exile and worshipped Lord Shiva to get mental peace. Later a temple with twent-three golden urns was built by King Navdhanu after conquering his enemy. In twelfth century this temple was destroyed and plundered by Yemeni invaders. Five hundred years ago Naga sadhus re-built this temple. The name of the Lord itself suggests that he is the God who fulfills the desires of the devotees. The Shiv Ling is of black granite on a raised pedestal. It is covered with a silver casing to prevent erosion. Devotees can enter the inner sanctum and worship the Lord directly. In most of the Shiva temples in Lucknow the Nandi idol is not seen in front outside the inner sanctum facing the Lord. A small statue of idol is seen in the sanctum in one corner. In the small niches of the sanctum small marble idols of Goddess Parvati, Ganesh and other deities are seen.

 Here Aarti is done both in the morning at 4.00 a.m. and in the evening at 8.30 p.m. The temple is open from 5.00 a.m. to 12.00 in the morning and from 3.00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m. in the evening. On Mondays the devotees can have darshan only from 4.00 a.m. to 12.00 in the daytime only. The temple hall decorated with many bells looks very attractive. In the month of Sravan and during Maha Sivaratri the temple conducts special poojas and ceremonies. During Aarti time many devotees come here and believe that darshan during aarti time will fulfill their desires. The nearby places are Hanuman Setu temple, Bara Imambara and Rumi Darwaaza.

                              *************************************

    8th October, 2019                                   Somaseshu Gutala