My Visit to Bhadrachalam

 

                        

Sanctum

Painting on the wall

Bhadra Rock in the temple premises

                         

Abhayanjaneya Swamy Temple

Rama Madas

Parnashala

Bridge over Godavari at Bhadrachalam

 We went to Bhadrachalam from Rajahmundry by taxi and the route goes through dense forests and winding curves. It is really a scenic drive but one problem is that we do not have any communication and contact with any person. The way is so isolated and completely cut off from the routine society.  On the way we saw a huge lorry blocking our way as it tumbled sidewards . Luckily some way is made for our small car to move forward. All other buses and trucks came to a stand still waiting for the lorry to be removed from the main road.

 According to the legend Bhadra, the son of Meru  mountain, was given Ramataraka mantra divine sage, Narada.  He did penance when Rama was in search of Sita. Rama promised him to meet him after he traced the missing Sita. But he forgot to fulfill his promise. Bhadra continued his penance wishing that Rama should stay on his head. Later Vishnu descended in the form of Rama to fulfill Bhadra’s wish. He came with four hands bearing conch and discus in his upper arms and bow and arrow in his lower arms. Sita was seated on his left thigh while Lakshman stood to his left.  But in Utsava vigrahas , Lakshman and Sita are seen on either side of the main deity. All three faced west towards the Godavari River. Rama held the conch in his right upper hand in contrast to Vishnu with the intention of giving salvation to Bhadra. So he is called “Vaikuntha Rama” or “Rama Narayana”. The three deities signified the three aspects of the sacred “OM” and so he earned the title “Omkara Rama”.

 According to Brahma Purana the worship of Bhadradri Rama gives spiritual knowledge. The idols were first discovered by a tribal woman called Pokala Dhammakka of Bhadrareddypalem.  In her dream Rama told her to take out the idols and worship them. She found the idols under an ant hill. She built a mandapam and worshipped the idols. Later Kancherla Gopanna, the Tahsildar of that region, built the temple in 1674 when the local people promised him to pay the amount after the construction of the temple. So he spent the amount (nearly six lakh varahas) collected as revenue without informing the king. Ramadas looked after the temple rituals which were conducted according to Pancharatra Agama tradition as followed in Ranganatha’s temple in Srirangam. Ramadas invited five Brahmin priest families who knew Pancharatra Agamas and with their help implemented the system of worship modelled on the methods followed in Srirangam. Ramadas also installed an icon of Ranganatha on a taller hill called “Ranganayakula Gutta”. Here there is also a temple called “Ramalingeshwara” dedicated to Shiva..  Opposite to Ranganayaka temple there is a shrine for Lakshmi Tayar. After Ramadas, Tumu Narsimhadasu with his associate Varada Ramadas continued the tradition. Narasimhadas introduced Dasavidhotsavams (ten kinds of rituals) during his tenure. The icons worshipped by Narasimhadas are housed in Amba Satram at the southern end of the temple. Here food is served to pilgrims visiting the temple. Ramadas used Bhadrachalam as a center of Bhajan (collective singing of devotional hymns) tradition to spread awareness of Vaishnavite tradition. Many great saints like Adi Shankara, Kabir and Thirumangai Alwar visited this place. Gopanna was given the title “Ramadas” by Sant kabir.  Gopanna’s songs inspired Thyagaraja who composed many famous songs on Sri Rama.

Bhadrachalam is a small town in Bhadradri Kothagudem district. This place became famous because of the three hundred year-old Rama temple built by Kancherla Gopanna (popularly known as ‘Ramadas’) who was a staunch devotee of Rama and a composer of many (nearly 200) devotional songs and Dasarathi satakam (collection of 104 poems in metrical verse) .  He suffered imprisonment for twelve years in a dungeon in Golconda as he had diverted a part of the revenue (six lakh varahas) for construction of the temple without informing the king, Abul Hasan Qutb Shah (Tanishah). Rama and Lakshmna appeared in the dream and asked the king to release Ramadas as they had cleared his debt and produced a heap of golden coins. The king woke up and found to his surprise a heap of gold coins called Rama Madas with inscribed images of Rama and Lakshmana on them. The king was very moved by the devotion of Ramadas and immediately released him and offered the whole sum of gold to him. But Ramadas declined the amount except two coins as a token of god’s grace. These two coins are still seen in the temple museum.

 Tanishah granted the income derived from Palwoncha Paragana (which amounts to nearly 20,000 and odd varahas) for the maintenance of the temple. This was continued during Qutub Shahi’s reign. On the occasion of Sita Rama Kalyanam day (Sri Rama Navami), they sent pearls as a gift to deities through a special messenger on an elephant. This custom of sending pearls and silk clothes is still continued by the present Telengana government. The Nizam of Hyderabad (Mir Osman Ali Khan) donated Rs.50, 000/- to the temple. From 1958 the temple had been managed by the A.P. government. In 1960 repairs were done to the temple. In 2016 the temple became a part of Bhadradri Kothagudem district.

This temple is seen on a hillock called Bhadradri and one has to climb fifty steps to reach the temple. The temple has four entrances. Lift facility is provided for elderly people from the side entrance. The rajagopuram at the northern entrance is called “Vaikuntha Dwaram”. Facing the Vaikuntha Dwaram, there is a big hall called “Mithila Stadium” which was started by the Ex-Chief Minister, Sri Jalagam Vengala Rao at a cost of 3.8 million rupees.   The sikhara (pinnacle) crowing the temple was carved from a single block of granite weighing 36 tonnes. This is the biggest vimana in recent times. There are many sub-shrines for gods like Venkateswara, Varaha, Hanuman Garuda, Vidya haygreeva and Narasimha along with shrines of  a few Vaishnavite Alwars around the sanctum. After entering the temple, you will come across the Rushya Mookham Exhibition Centre to the left and the counter selling prasadam on the right.

 Those who buy special tickets can enter the sanctum from the left side. For the rest of the pilgrims, the queue (which is never very long) is along the front of the sanctum. The deity in the inner sanctorum is Swayambhu (self-manifested) with Sita seated in Rama’s lap. To their left, there is the idol of Laxmana in a standing position. The statue of Rama has four hands (charturbhuja Rama). Lord Vishnu’s divine conch and discus, which are generally in his left and right hands respectively, are seen interchanged in this particular idol, indicating the hurry in which he descended to grace Bhadra. His other two hands hold a bow and arrow each. Opposite the main sanctum, there is a shrine of Goddess Laxmi. Next to it, there is the Rishya Mookham Exhibition Centre with nominal entry fee. The exhibition showcases Rama madas, jewellery that Ramdas made for deities such as the famous chintaku patakamu, (a necklace studded with rubies), Kiritas (crowns), plait decorations, Mutyala haramu (pearl chain) and other such items. There is also a shrine dedicated to Bhadra, behind the sanctorum of the temple. On this rock structure the foot prints of Rama are seen and Thirunamam is applied on it. This is regarded as the head of Bhadra on which the foot prints of Rama are seen. The hillock on which the temple is seen  in this area.The visible part of the hillock contains what is supposedly Rama's foot prints. There is a Nitya Kalyana Mandapam (wedding hall) in the outer ambulatory passage of the temple, where Sitarama Kalyanam (wedding ceremony of Sita and Rama) is performed regularly. The temple opens at 4.00 a.m when Suprabhatam is performed. The temple hours are from 4.30 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. and from 3.00 p.m. to 9.00 p.m. Abhishekam is done to Moola Virat every Sunday. Special poojas and rituals are performed during annual Bramostavam, Sri Rama Navami, Vaikunta Ekadashi and Vijaya Dashami. A meditation hall (Dhyana mandir) was constructed here by Neelamraju Venkata Sheshayya, the then editor of Andhra Prabha, in 1972 in memory of Ramadas. Since then Vaggeyakaramahotsavams(musical concert) are organized during Mukkoti Ekadashi every yhear by inviting famous musicians.

 There is a hermitage (called Parnashala) at a distance of 34kms from Bhadrachalam where Rama and his wife along with Lakshman dwelt during their exile period. From here only Ravana in the guise of a hermit came and  abducted Sita to his kingdom Sri Lanka. The way to the Parna Shala looks very scenic with fields, bamboo huts and palm trees. Many tribal people are seen selling wild honey, liquor made from wild flowers and other forest products. In the Parna Shala one can see a model hut with many life like statues depicting the scenes from Ramayana such as – Sita spotting the golden deer and asking Rama for it, Laxman leaving Sita to go find Rama when the latter doesn’t return, Ravana arriving in the form of a sanyasi (ascetic) and asking Sita for alms and Ravana abducting Sita. Another model of a hut adjacent to this describes various scenes of the Ramayana that follow Ravana’s abduction of Sita. The statues are to be maintained in good condition and the surrounding have to be clean and neat. Labels describing the scenes should be displayed so that pilgrims may know something about Ramayana. Just one km from here there is place called “Sethamma Vari Gattu” where Sita used to dry her clothes. One can also see the foot prints of Rama there. The nearby temples are Sri Abhayanjaneya Swamy temple, Dasanjaneya temple and Govindaraja temple etc. Rama is worshipped as Atma Rama at Dommugudem where he killed 14,000 demons. In Gundala five kms away hot water springs are seen Rama, Sita and Lakshman had taken their bath during winter season.

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    23rd February, 2020                                          Somaseshu Gutala

MY Visit to Arasavalli Suryanarayana temple, Srikakulam

                                                                Arasavalli Suryanarayana Temple

Vimanam or gopuram of the temple in Kalinga style

Satya Sai Dhyana Mandiram facing the temple

Side view of the temple

Idol of Sun God in the sanctum

                             

Idol of Sun God with ornaments

                                 

Indra Thirtham

Arasavalli (previously called “Harshavalli” means the land of pleasure) is a village at a distance of 2kms from Srikakulam town. The famous sun temple is located in this village. This temple was built by Devendra Varma of Kalinga dynasty in 7^th century. This is one of the oldest sun temples in India. The architectural and artistic skills of Oriya Maharanas or Viswakarma Brahmins are seen in the construction of this temple. The Kalinga kings ruled this region from 4^th to 14^th century. Many inscriptions reveal the grants made by persons like Aditya Vishnu Sharma and Bhanu Sharma of the Kalinga clan. The original structure was completely destroyed by Muslim rulers during 17^th century when this area was under the rule of Nizam kings. Sher Mohammad Khan, the Subedar of this region, destroyed many temples here. Sita Rama Sastry, the advisor to the Subedar , protected the main idol by hiding it in a well. The present structure mostly made of cement and lime stone was built in 18^th century. Historical evidences show that this temple was built in 1788 by a philanthropist, Sri Yelamanchili Pullaji Pantulu and his family. During 1980’s the A.P.State Endowments Dept. built the Pradakshina mandapam and Surya Namaskara mandapam. The gopuram and the inner sanctum were re-built by Sri Varudu Babji of Alukudu village in 1999. The front mandapam was built in 2006 with contributions made by GMR family, an industrialist. Kesakhandana Shala (place for tonsuring) and Annadana Satram (place for free meals distribution) were added subsequently,

According to Padma Purana, Sage Kasyapa installed the idol of Suryanarayana here for the welfare of mankind. According to Sthala Purana, Lord Indra founded this temple and installed the idol of Surya. When Indra tried to enter the temple of Uma Rudra Koteswara by force, he was driven away by Nandi with such force that he fell here. He prayed to Surya to relieve him of his body pains and suffering. Lord Surya healed him and at Indra’s request stayed here to bless his devotees. Indra dug a pond with his Vajra and found the idol of Surya there. So the pond near the temple is called “Indra Pushkarini.”

  The idol of Surya is made of five-foot tall black granite. Surya is seen in standing posture holding two lotus buds in his two hands. This type of idol is called Padma Pani Murty. His three consorts Padmini. Usha and Chaya are seen by his side. Padmini represents wisdom while Usha and Chaya represent eternity. On the top of the idol two divine saints, Sanaka and Sanandana holding chatras (umbrellas) are seen. At the base of the idol two guards (Dwara Palakas), Mathara and Pingala are seen. The Sun God is depicted as riding in a chariot driven by his charioteer, Anura. All these figures are exquisitely carved on a single black granite stone. The temple is built in such a way that the rays of the sun touch the idol from feet to face for a few minutes during the months of March (between 9^th and 12^th) and October(between 1^st and fourth) for a few minutes. Many devotees come here to see this unusual spectacle.

 This temple built in the form of a chariot is a Panchayatana temple (where five gods are worshipped) with Aditya in the center and with Ganesha, Shiva, Parvati and Vishnu in four corners. An idol of Indra is also seen here. Many people believe that skin diseases, blindness and barrenness are cured by worshipping the God in this temple. Worship is done as per Smartha Agama tradition. Every day many sevas like Ashtotaranamarchana, Sahasra namarchana, Ksheeranna Bhogam, Kshraabhishekam and Kalyana seva are done. Surya Namskarams (worshipping the Lord with Yoga postures reciting Sowra and Aruna mantras) is done on Sunday from 6.00 a.m. to 12.00 noon. Tiruveedhi Seva is done at 6.00 p.m. on Sundays. Ksheerabhishekam to the main idol (Moola Virat) is done every month when the sun transits from one zodiac sign (Rasi) to the other zodiac sign (Rasi). Nitya Archana starts at 5.30 a.m. ad Maha Nivedana is done at 12.30 p.m. Annadanam is done every day after 12.30 p.m. The temple timings are from 6.00 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and from 3.30 p.m. to 8.0-0 p.m. Special poojas are done on Janmashtami, Dussera, Vaikunta Ekadasi, Makara Sankranti, Ratha Saptami and  Maha Shiva ratri. There are very few sun temples in India. In Alampur Nava Brahma temples there is a Sun temple dating back to 9^th century. The sun temple in Konark (Orissa) is in a dilapidated condition. As many believe, the worship of sun gives good health and spiritual knowledge. The nearby temples are Sri Kurmam(15kms) and Sri Mukhalingeswara(54kms) and Rudra Koteswara (3kms).

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      7th February, 2020                                          Somaseshu Gutala

            

                       

 

My Visit to Umarudra Koteswara Swamy temple, Gudi Veedhi, Srikakulam

River View Park

During my one-day stay in Srikakulam I could not see many temples. Just before leaving that place I went to see this local temple located beside the old road bridge. Going through the narrow lane we saw this temple just beside the banks of the Nagavali River. On the way we also came across the River View park with  children’s  playground  and animal models. This park was built in 1999 with the M.P. funds sanctioned by the erstwhile M.P. Late Sri Yerram Naidu. The temple from the outside appeared to be an ordinary one without much artistic sculptures. But it has got mythological significance.

  Lord Balarama travelled towards south at the time of Mahabharata war as he wished not to take sides and fight in the war. When he came to Dandakaranya near the Bay of Bengal, he saw people suffering from drought and harassed by the demon Pralambasuti. To save the people from the demon and the drought, he killed Pralambasuti and dug with his plough (called nagali in Telugu) and made a river flow which is called “Nagavali”. The Nagavali River flows from Kalahandi (Orissa) and flows through Rayagad and Koraput districts of Orissa and Srikakulam and Vijayanagaram districts of Andhra Pradesh and joins the Bay of Bengal at Kallepalli near Mapasubandaru village in Srikakulam Diustrict.  He also set up five Shiva temples so that people may seek the permission of Shiva to see the Lord Kurmanatha in Srikurmam. Before that only gods used to worship at Srikurmam temple. These Shiva temples are called Pancha Linga Kshetras. They are: Payakeshwara Swamy in Rayagad(orissa), Someswara Swamy at Gumpa village near Parvatipuram, Sangameswara Swamy near Rajam, Uma Rudra Koteswara Swamy in Srikakaulam and Mani Nageswara swamy at Kallepalli village near the bay of Bengal. Balarama built the fifth temple (Patala Siddeswara Swamy) in front of the Kurmanatha Swamy temple.

 Sri Uma Ruidra Koteswara Swamy temple is the Kshetrapalika temple on the western border of Srikurmam temple. Another legend says that Lord Indra’s pride was humbled by Nandi when he tried to enter the temple by force after it was closed. Nandi hurled him with such power that Indra fell down exhausted and weak. He prayed to Lord Surya to give him relief from the pain. Surya touched him with his healing rays and made him recover his strength. Indra requested him to stay there and give relief to people. Surya directed him to find out his idol at the place where Lord Indra fell.  Indra dug the place and got the Surya idol and constructed a temple for Surya. This place is called Harasavalli (later called Arasavalli). Indra also dug a lake with his Vajra near the temple and it is called Indra Pushkarini. Indra worshipped Lord Umarudra later to get relief from his sins. Thus there is close connection between Arasavalli temple and Uma Rudreswara Temple.

 This temple was built with Salihundam red stine in South Indian style. Pujas in this temple are done as per Panchayatana Agama Sastra tradition. This temple was first built by Lord Balarama five thousand years ago. Later it was re-built by Magatapalli Kamayya Setti of Konada village, Vijayanagaram Dist. in 1774. Since 2001, renovations are being done by Samkrg Pistons (a local factory) and Krushnam Vande Jagadgurum (a local spiritual organization). In the Mukha mandapa we can see a very big and beautiful statue of Nandi . In the inner sanctum there is a big idol of Shiva in Linga form. There is a shrine for Shiva’s consort Rajarajeswari in the Mukha mandapa just on the left side of the sanctum. The temple was very much crowded when we went there. Special poojas are done here on Mondays and during Kartika month and on Maha Shiva Ratri festival. The temple timings are from 6.00 a.m. to 11.00 a.m. and from 5.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. if you visit Srikurmam take time to see this important Shiva temple also.

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          10th January, 2020                              Somaseshu Gutala

MY Visit to Srikurmam (Srikakulam Dist.) A.P.

Temple tower

Temple's pillared mandapa

Kurmanatha Swamy in the sanctum

The main deity in the sanctum

Swetha Pushkarini

Sculture of Durga 

Secret passage leading to Kashi (now closed)

                       

Vishnu's sculpture

 

Vinayaka's sculpture

 

Sculptures 

  

Mural painting on the walls

    

mural painting

   

Foot prints of Sri Chaitanya Prabhu

                 

Sculpture on the wall

Marks of limestone mix seen on the walls

Star tortoises in the tortoise park

Commemorative stamp issued on Sri Kurmam temple 

This is a unique temple where Lord Vishnu manifested Himself in the incarnation of the divine tortoise or Kurma who helped the gods and demons when they churned the milky ocean using the Mandara Mount as a churning device. This temple is regarded as one of the important Vaishnavite holy places. The eastern Ganga kings respected this place as their Guru Peetha. This temple is not only regarded as Moksha Sthana (place for salvation) but also as a Pitru Kshetra (holy place of ancestors). So many people perform rituals for their ancestors here which will give them salvation. Narahari Theertha, disciple of Madhwacharya, created the office of Bhoga Parikasha (religious head) to supervise the temple activities. He later built a temple for Yogananda Narasimha in front of this temple. According to temple inscriptions Narasimhadasa Pandita and Purushottama Deva served as Bhoga Parikshas here. 

This temple’s history goes back to times immemorial up to Krita Yuga of 28^th Maha Yuga of Vaivaswatha Manvantara, nearly twenty lakh years ago according to the Vedic calendar. According to legends Swetha Chakravarthi in a fit of infatuation tried to make love to his wife, Vishnu Priya when she was  in  Vrata (religious rite) on Shuddha Ekadashi day. When she prayed to God, Lord Vishnu sent a rushing stream to separate her from her husband who was carried away by the flowing waters to a hill called Swetha Giri. Sage Narada appeared there and taught him Kurma Narayana Mantra and advised him to do penance. The king was blessed with the appearance of Lord Narayana in His Kurma Avatar. As per the king’s wish the Lord stayed there. According to Padma Purana Lord Brahma consecrated the deity with Gopala Yantra. A pushkarini or pond was created by Lord Vishnu using His Sudarshan Chakra to heal the king who became very weak. This Pushkarini is called Swetha Pushkarini or Sudarshana Kund from which Vishnu’s consort emerged with her mount Garuda. She is called Kurma Nayaki. In the middle of the temple pond a small mandapam called “Narasimha Mandapam” is seen. Later this temple was re-built many times in different periods. It is believed that bathing in this holy pond on Magha Suudha Chavithi relieves one from many sins.

The Parikrama Mandapa is said to have been built in 2^nd century A.D. The sanctum or Garbha Griha was built in 7^th century A.D. The first outer Prakaram or compound wall was built in 13^th century. According to historical evidence this temple was built by the eastern Ganga king Ananthavarman Choda Ganga in 1281 A.D. Previously the deity was worshipped as Kurmeshwara in Shaivite tradition. In eleventh century Sri Ramanuja visited this place and converted it to a Vaishnavite temple with the support of the eastern Ganga King. It is said that the Lord turned to the west to give darshan to Ramanuja. Hence in this temple there are two dwaja sthambas, one in the east and the other one in the west, a unique feature not found in many Vishnu temples. The devotees have direct access to inner sanctum here to have the darshan of the Lord. The idol of Kurmanadha is made of special black stone called Saligrama. The deity is 2.5 feet long consisting of three structures with the head facing west and the rear part marked with swirling lines. The Utsava deities Govinda Raja, Sri Devi and Bhu Devi were found in Swetha Pushkarini in twelfth century. The Utsava deities of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Sita were later presented by Narahari Theertha. All these vigrahas or idols are seen in a small room near the sanctum and are worshipped daily. Beside the main sanctum the shrine of Maha Lakshmi (Kurma Nayaki) is seen.  

Accroding to Puranas many great persons visited this place. Rama’s sons Lava and Kusha came to this place and worshipped the Lord. Sage Durvasa also visited this place with his disciples. Lord Bala Rama also came to this place. Great spiritual teachers like Adi Sankaracharya in 8^th century, Sri Ramanujacharya in 11th century and Narahri Theertha in 13^th century and Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu in 1512, visited this place and worshipped the Lord.

 This temple was built in the style fusing both Andhra and Kalinga styles of architecture (Gandharva Shilpa Sampradaya). The Vimana or tower was built in Dravidian pyramid-shaped style. The superstructure has an octagonal sikhara (summit) adorned by a kalasa. The mandapa has 108 monolithic stone pillars with different carvings and designs with none resembling the others. Each pillar was shaped in its own original way. Some inscriptions related to royal lineages from 11^th to 19^th centuries are seen on these pillars. In Niches or Koshtas around the temple images of Vishnu, Gaja Lakshmi, Ganesh, Durga, Trivikrama, Narasimha, along with Ashta Dikpalakas (lords of eight directions) are beautifully carved though some of them were damaged. One can see nearly forty-one beautiful mural paintings on the temple walls just like the paintings in Ajanta caves. In May, 2011, the A.P.State Archaeology took measures to preserve these mural paintings. To protect this temple from foreign invaders during 14th and 15^th centuries, the locals applied limestone mix on the entire temple and camouflaged it to look like a hillock. Even now these marks of lime are noticed on the walls of the temple.

 In the temple premises within an enclosure (Tortoise Park) more than a hundred star tortoises are kept and taken care of the Govt. of A.P. and the N.G.O. Green Mercy organization.The star tortoises are land animals found in India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. But these pretty creatures covered with dust were crawling in a congested space where a few leaves of greens are thrown. Of course the temple authorities need sufficient money for the up-keep of these animals. It would be better if they are kept in a spacious area with sufficient greenery and a pond in the middle so that they can move freely and get adequate attention. At present this temple is managed by the A.P. Hindu religious and Endowment Board and the Gajapati Rajus of Vijayanagaram are the temple trustees. On 11^th April, 2013, the Indian Postal Department issued a stamp featuring this temple .

This temple follows both Shaivite and Vaishnavite traditions of worship. Abhishekam is done every day. Nitya Kalyanam and Nitya Bhogam are done. The annual Kalyonotsavam is done on Vaisakha Suddha Ekadashi. Kurma Jayanti (Jyesta Bahula dwadashi) and Vaikunta Ekadashi are also celebrated along with three day Dolostavam. Kamadahanam is celebrated on the first day followed by Padiya and Dolotsavam.  The opening hours of this temple are from 6.00 a.m. to 11.00 a.m. and from 3.00 p.m. to 8.00 p.m. This temple is at a distance of 50 kms from Srikakulam and 130 kms from Visakhapatnam. On the way to this temple Patala Siddeshwara’s temple is seen. People believe that one has to visit this temple before entering the main temple of Kurma Nadha.

                   

            January 2, 2020                      Somaseshu Gutala



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