Sights and Insights

Saturday, May 24, 2014

My Visit to Mary Arden's Farmhouse at Wilmcote

Front view of Mary Arden's Farmhouse

Courtyard

Living Room

backyard

The kitchen

View of garden

Cotswold sheep

                                        My Visit to Mary Arden’s Farm at Wilmcote

We continued our journey to Wilmcote, eight miles from Stratford-upon-Avon to see the well-maintained Mary Arden’s Farm House , where Shakespeare’s mother , Mary Arden, was born and brought up. The original name of this farm house was “Glebe Farm”. It was a big Tudor type of two-storey mansion surrounded by vast grounds and woods where one can get an idea about a rich landlord’s way of life of those times with various activities like breeding different types of animals and birds, cultivating gardens, milking cows, threshing corn, making butter and enjoying country sports . Mary Arden(1540-1608) , the youngest of Robert Arden’s family of eight daughters, inherited this estate after her father’s death in 1556. She married John Shakespeare, who was working as a tenant in her father’s land, in 1557. She belonged to a rich Catholic family of nobles who served the kings like Henry VII and William, the conqueror.

This House has two storeys built in Tudor style with a thatched roof . Though the exterior walls were rebuilt in brick, the construction of the rooms were kept in their original state as they had been in 1514.The living room meant for entertaining guests leads to a parlor where old-fashioned wooden furniture is seen. In the kitchen various utensils and household tools are seen. The room for making butter was added in later times.

Hereford cattle

Courtyard

the hawk in the Farm

Pigs in the Farmyard

Baggot goats in the Farm

The white owl

Longhorn Cattle

Shirehorses in the farm

Whenever the dreaded disease, plague broke out in Stratford, Shakespeare might have spent some here along with his mother and other siblings. The beautiful gardens, agricultural activities and rural sports impressed his mind so much that one can find descriptions of country sports and pleasures in his plays and poems. Just outside the kitchen we found ladies attired in Tudor fashion baking bread on mud-built ovens holding a pair of tongs. A young girl was stacking hay in a wheel barrow to feed horses in the stable. The Cotswold Sheep are kept in a shed. In Elizabethan age people consumed sheep milk often than cow’s milk. We also saw a huge cider-press with an enormous revolving wheel. Two shire horses of gigantic size were led by two short ladies . A horse carriage was nearby. As we passed through farm land we saw two huge hairy creatures with dense curly brown hair resting in the dark hollows below. They are a special Hungarian breed of pigs called Mangalitza pigs. In those days pigs were in immense demand and every Englishman kept pigs for consumption We also witnessed the feats performed by a large white owl which obeyed the commands of the trainer. Hawking was a popular pastime in Elizabethan times. We saw various types of birds like hawks, owls, wood peckers, falcons, geese and hooded vultures. We also saw other special breeds of animals like Baggot goats with snow-white backs and black front, long horn cattle with bent curved horns, Tamworth pigs with brown shaggy skin, geese and Gloucester cattle with white patches on their backs.

The life of a prosperous landlord in 16^th century with age-old customs and practices is brought before our very eyes, and I could not but feel the impact of this type of life on Shakespeare’s plays which abound in lyrical descriptions of Nature, country pleasures, queer beliefs and superstitions and folklore of those times. The custodians of this building organized nature trails, and demonstration shows so as to re-create the atmosphere those times and give a wealth of information about that age. Just beside this farm there was another farmhouse of Arden’s neighbor, Adam Palmer, called now “Palmer’s Farm”. It was acquired by Shakespeare Birthplace Trust in 1930. At first the authorities mistook Adams Farm as the residence of Mary Arden and only in 2000 they were able to find out the authentic building of Mary Arden. Arden’s Farm was taken under care by Shakespeare’s Birthplace Trust in 1968 just as an adjoining building to Arden’s Farm. After 2000 they found out that it was the real residence of Mary Arden’s family. The rural Farm House with a spacious garden surrounded by woods and with enclosures for various animals and birds and the practical demonstration of country customs and various household activities enlighten and entertain all visitors irrespective of age and temperament.

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25th May, 2014 Somaseshu Gutala

Saturday, May 17, 2014

My visit to Anne Hathaway's Cottage at Shottery

Anne Hathaway's Cottage

Anne Hathaway

Approach road to the cottage

Side view of the Cottage

Garden around the cottage

Anne Hathaway'a couch

Buttery

Parlour

Just one mile away from Stratford-upon-Avon, located in the hamlet of Shottery,-- a picturesque spot with green woods and trees—is seen. That spot has become a tourist centre not just because of its natural beauty but because it was the native village of Anne Hathaway, the charming rustic lady, who made the famous bard fall in love with her and marry her, though he was younger than her by eight years. The marriage took place in a hurried manner as she was pregnant and the families on both sides wished to avoid getting bad name.

We saw Anne Hathaway’s cottage—a farm house in Tudor style—built with walls of puddle mud, wattles and horse hair plaster with a thatched roof, having many jutting chimneys. The house has twelve rooms surrounded by beautiful gardens on both sides bordered with woods. The entrance hall served as a drawing room. Beside the fire place there was an elm-boarded settle (bench). It is said that Shakespeare used to sit here while courting his rustic mistress. On either side of the hall there is a kitchen and a room for buttery. There is a room for storing ale and provisions. The Elizabethans often drank ale instead of water as the water was not pure and they thought that it would make them sick. In the kitchen one can see a oven built into the brick wall with a wooden door in front. There are six bed rooms on upstairs. In one of the rooms there is a wooden bed with decorative carvings where Anne used to sleep. Next to Anne’s bed there is a plain-looking chair called “Shakespeare’s Chair.”

Anne, the eldest of the eight children, though illiterate, learnt domestic work and other types of work. Her father, Richard Hathaway, a prosperous landlord and friend of Shakespeare’s father, had not lived to witness his daughter’s marriage with William Shakespeare. He died in September, 1581. Anne, already pregnant with a child, married in November, 1582 at Temple Grafton, a place just five miles from Stratford. This farm house called at that time as “New Land Farm” was later labeled as “Hathaway’s Cottage”. This spacious house was built in 1460s and was later extended till 1623. Nearly ninety-six acres of land were attached to this house. One can find the typical model of a country landlord’s house of Tudor times with simple furniture, farming tools and wooden beams supporting the roof. The Shakespeare Birthplace Trust acquired it in 1892. Many plants along with a sculpture garden make this place more attractive and fascinating to the visitors.
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17th May, 2014 Somaseshu Gutala

Saturday, May 10, 2014

At Holy Trinity Church, Stratford-upon-Avon

Holy Trinity Church

Inner view

Shakespeare's tomb in chancel

Shakespeare's Coat-of -arms

The Font for Baptism

Shakespeare's funerary monument

After leaving the New Place we proceeded to see the Holy Trinity church situated in the Chapel Street where Shakespeare and his family members found their last resting place. This parish church is one of the most ancient churches in England. Its name was first mentioned in the charter of 845 A.D. signed by Beorhtwulf (Bertulf), king of Mercia, perhaps a wooden construction at that time. Later the Normans constructed a stone building. But no trace of these two constructions remains now. The present limestone building was constructed in the shape of a cross in 1210 by Hugh Clopton, a native of Stratford, who later became the Mayor of London. He also constructed the well-known Clopton bridge over the river Avon in 1480. The town guild maintained the church till 1330. Henry VIII suppressed the guild and gave their assets to the town council. Some of the carvings, chantry and the rood screen were destroyed by the zealous reformers of religion. Hugh Clopton re-built the chapel of the Guild of the Holy Cross and raised the roof and re-built the nave with side aisles. He also had a magnificent tomb built for himself in the then Lady chapel (later named Clopton Chapel) with beautiful carvings. But he died in London in 1496 and was buried in the parish church of St.Margaret, Lothbury. The descendants of his family, George Carew and his wife Joyce Clopton were buried in that tomb. The church compound gave a serene and pious atmosphere with rows of trees planted on both sides with many tombs seen here there with worn out inscriptions and with various sculptured figures in different sizes and shapes. The interior of the church seemed very grand with stained glass windows, paintings and sculptures. In the church we can see the old register in which Shakespeare’s date of baptism (26^rd April, 1564) and burial (25^th April.1616) were recorded in quaint Elizabethan handwriting. Shakespeare purchased a part of the income privileges (tithes) of the church for 440 pounds in 1605. Thus he got the right of being buried in the chancel in the interior part of the church just behind the pulpit. This right of burial was inherited by his family members. His wife, Ann Hathaway, his elder daughter, Susanna, his sons-in-law, John Hall and Thomas Nash were buried in the chancel. His granddaughter, Elizabeth, who married Barnard, died and was buried in Abington church in 1670.The tombs looked quite simple and plain without much sculpturesque decoration. The epitaph on the tomb with a note of gentle warnings says:

“Good friend for Jesus sake forbear

To dig the dust enclosed here

Blessed be the man that spares these stones

And cursed be he that moves my bones.”

Clopton Chapel

Row of misericords

Paintings om windows

Paintings of Saints on glass windows

Unicorn's picture

mermaids on misericord

misericord

To the left of Shakespeare’s bust there is another porch wherein we can the busts of William Clopton (1538-1592) and his wife Ann. William Clopton was the great grandson of John Clopton, younger brother of Hugh Clopton .On the table there is a bulky Bible chained to the desk just for the visitors to have a glance at it. The bard had read the same book whenever he came for prayers. We can also see the stone font which was used for baptism. Shakespeare might have been baptized with the holy water from the same font. We can also see the twenty-six beautiful wooden carvings called misericords or mercy seats(small wooden shelves or ledges artistically carved, fixed on the underside of folding seats to provide support to persons who stand during prayers for a long period) depicting the scenes of daily life and the pictures of mermaids, mermen and unicorns. Again we have to thank Hugh Clopton who liberally contributed for the renovation and beautification of this church. We can see the bust of Shakespeare just above to the left of Shakespeare’s tomb in a porch. This was commissioned by Ann Hathaway in 1623 and so it is certain that the carved bust looked similar to the poet in appearance. Just above the porch Shakespeare’s family’s coat-of-arms was carved. Gerard John made this bust probably based on Shakespeare’s death mask. All the members of Shakespeare’s family had been buried in this church premises except his brother Edmund,who went to London as a professional actor and died at the age of twenty-seven in 1607. His tomb is seen in the church of St.Mary Overy, where John Fletcher and Philip Massinger, dramatists for Kings’ Men, were buried in later times.

As we came out, the shady rows of trees, the wide porch and tall stained windows with paintings cast a deep and moving impression on our minds. We felt a sense of sacred touch and Shakespeare, himself, might have felt alike whenever he visited this place after his hectic schedule in London or during his later leisurely life after leaving his career as a playwright.

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10th May, 2014 Somaseshu Gutala

Saturday, May 3, 2014

My Visit to Stratford-upon-Avon (Part--II)

My Visit to Stratford-upon-Avon (Part-II)

Edward VI Grammar School

Classroom in the school

Later we passed along the church street viewing the Edward VI Grammar School where the great poet had his education for six years ( from 1571 to 1578) mainly learning Latin. As his father, John Shakespeare, was the Chief Alderman of the town, William had been given free access to education. This school was funded by the local town guild. Just a few yards away in the Trinity Street there is the house of Shakespeare’s elder daughter’s house “Hall’s Croft” with a spacious garden. The spacious rooms, high ceiling and large glass windows with 16^th and 17^th century paintings and furniture give an impression of a wealthy man’s dwelling. On the ground floor the entrance hall, the parlor, the kitchen and the consulting room are seen. Shakespeare’s daughter, Susanna (1583-1649) married John Hall (1575-1635), a famous physician in 1607. Medical books, clinical instruments and herbs are seen in upstairs rooms, besides bed rooms with Elizabethan type of cots, tables and chairs. Various articles made of porcelain are found indicating the high status of the owner. John Hall, an eminent physician had good practice and showed keen interest in growing medicinal plants. His medical notes were published in 1657, twenty two years after his death. In the garden various types of flowers and herbs are seen.

A room in Hall's Croft

A room with fireplace

Consulting Room

Main Living Room

The kitchen

Porcelain Jars

Front view of Hall's Croft

View of the garden at Hall's Croft

Rear view of Hall's croft

Later we visited Nash’s house, the house of Shakespeare’s grand daughter, Elizabeth (1608-1670), who married Thomas Nash(1593-1647), a property dealer. Shakespeare purchased “New Place”, the second biggest mansion of the town just located beside Nash’s house in 1597, and spent the last years of his life there. “The New Place”, Shakespeare’s residence was thought to be a pretty work of brick and wood having many rooms with servant’s quarters and other facilities with five gabled rooms. Unfortunately the mansion was later completely demolished by a vicar, called Francis Gastrell in 1759. He was infuriated by the frequent visits of the poet’s admirers. To avoid paying enhanced property tax, he hastily took this extreme step of razing down one of the most important heritage structures. A knot garden was laid out in the vacant space consisting of many kinds of plants, fruit trees and herbs in beautiful patterns. Many flowers mentioned by Shakespeare in his poems and plays are planted here such as roses, violets, daisies, daffodils, cherry blossoms and pansies. The knot garden looked like a crest jewel with multi-faceted floral colors. It seemed as the beautiful rain-bow was molded into various floral designs. The custodian there told us that the mulberry tree seen there was grown from the branch of the original mulberry tree planted by Shakespeare when he settled down in Stratford to lead the life of a country gentleman after leaving London in 1610. He further added that the scientific D.N.A. tests were carried out to verify and prove this fact. Francis Gastrell, who purchased “New Place” cut down the mulberry tree planted by Shakespeare , when Gastrell was annoyed with the visitors to this mansion. In the garden cultivated at the “New Place”, excavation work was going on to find out valuable artifacts and other things associated with the immortal bard. The entry to this knot garden is through Nash’s house. This house looked quite spacious with entrance hall, parlor, kitchen on ground floor. One can find rich tapestries, furniture, porcelain utensils, paintings and artifacts in upstairs rooms. This building is now converted into a museum to preserve valuable tokens and documents associated with the history of Stratford town before and Shakespeare’s life .Thomas Nash married Elizabeth in 1626. After his death in Elizabeth re-married John Barnard of Abington in 1649, all her children predeceased her. Elizabeth, the last member of Shakespeare’s family died in 1670 and was buried in Abington church. Her second husband died in 1674. In the garden cultivated at the “New Place”, excavation work was going on to find out valuable artifacts and other things associated with the immortal bard.