The Magnificent Melrose Abbey

         

Melrose Abbey

Interior part of the Presbytery

 





 

 This historic abbey well-known for its architectural beauty and graceful sculptures is also one of the richest abbeys having nearly 22000 acres of land and trading Melrose wool manufactured here, to neighboring states. It is located just 35 miles away from Edinburgh. Located in an area of 40 acres this abbey built in Gothic style was founded in 1136 by Cistercian monks (a sect of St.Benedict)  on the request of king David I of Scotland. It took nearly ten years to build this abbey in the shape of St.John’s Cross. Nearly one hundred thirty monks used to stay here and spent their time not only in spiritual pursuits but also in cultivating crops and in manufacturing of wool which fetched them adequate funds to carry out their service activities. Most parts of the abbey are in ruined condition. Still one can appreciate the lavishly decorated masonry work by viewing the figures of Mary with Baby Christ, of Christian Saints, angels, gargoyles, plants and stone windows fringed with delicate creepers and designs.This abbey was dedicated to St.Mary on July 28th 1146. The south east entrance and the chapter house are still in good condition.

South Transept Window

     

Abbey seen from south

  In this abbey the graves of many Scottish kings, nobles and famous persons are seen. The heart of the brave Scottish hero, Robert Bruce, encased in a leaden casket was buried here on the abbey’s grounds in 1812. Previously it was supposed to have been buried in the chapter house. The stone coffin of Michael Scott, the magic wizard and philosopher of thirteenth century was found in the south chancel. The tombs of illustrious persons like Alexander II , King of Scots (1198-1249), William Douglas, James Douglas( Both Earls of Douglas),  Sir David Brewster (The inventor of kaleidoscope) and William de Bondington (Bishop of Glasgow)  are found in this abbey.

Tomb of Michael Scott, the wizard

Carvings on the pillar

Virgin with her child

A Statue on the wall

 

South Entrance

Pig playing bagpipe

 In 1322 the abbey was destroyed by Edward II, king of England. The Scottish king Robert Bruce re-built the abbey. In 1385 the abbey was burnt and ravaged by Richard II when he forced the army of the Scottish king Robert II back to Edinburgh. The abbey was re-built in different phases over a period of the next one hundred years. In 1544 the forces of Henry VIII completely damaged the abbey. Henry VIII  resorted to this vandalous act to force the Scots to allow the infant Mary, Queen of Scots, marry his son. After this event the abbey gradually lost its status as a working monastery. The last Abbot was James Stuart, son of James V, who died in 1559. In 1590 the last monk of the abbey died. The last assault on this abbey was by Oliver Cromwell during the Civil War in 1610.  A portion of the church was used as parish for the surrounding town till 1810, when a new church was erected in the town.

  This abbey was very spacious (258 feet in length and 137.5 feet in breadth) with the principal tower reaching 84 feet in height. It has nearly 50 windows, four doors, fifty five niches and fifty buttresses with beautiful carvings, statues and figures. The statues of saints with labeled scrolls in the niches were completely destroyed by the English army during their attacks. Damage was caused by the English forces in 1322 and in 1384. Richard II gave a grant in 1389 to compensate for the losses. During Reformation most of the land grants and possessions of the abbey were seized by the Crown and nobles. The famous author, Sir William Scott described the serene and solemn picturesque sight of this abbey in the second canto of his famous poem “The Lay of the Last Minstrels.” In U.S. a Presbyterian Congregation was built in the pattern of this abbey in Michigan on Bloomfield Hills.


     

The spot where the heart of Robert Bruce was buried

 This abbey is one of the most beautiful constructions that suffered destruction due to political and religious rivalries between Scotland and England. As one leaves the abbey with a heavy heart, one cannot but remember the Scottish inscription “Be halde to ye hende” (Keep in mind the end of your salvation) of John Morow, the Master-Mason, seen on one of the staircases.

“How true, yet so simple embodying a profound moral to all mankind!”

                         

                                              *********************                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     8th Feb. 2014                                                                          SOMASESHU GUTALA

                            

                                            

  

                                      

                                                           

 e

Our Visit to Dryburgh Abbey

Chapter house inside

Chapter house entrance

            

East Processional Door

The Commemorative Obelisk

Rose Window

    

Scott's Grave

                                                                               
      We first visited  Dryburgh Abbey located near St.Boswells, a Scottish village just beside the

bend of the Tweed river. Though it is in a ruined state, the available blocks of sculpture and

walls with windows gave us a faint idea about the beautiful but not showy construction of the

abbey. This abbey was founded on 10th Nov.1150 by the Premonstratensian monks ( a sect of

Augustinians) on a site made sacred St. Modan (an Irish monk who built a chapel here in 522

A.D.). The monks from Alnwick founded this abbey on the site owned by Hugh De MoreVille,

father of one of the assassins of St.Thomas Beckett of Canterbury during the reign of Henry II of

 England  in 1170. In this abbey, the rose window, the cloister, the dormitory, south east entrance 

 and the chapter house ( meeting hall for monks) are still in good condition. The obelisk (a pillar like 

structure commemorating the founder , Hugh De Moreville) installed  by the Earl of Buchan is also in

good condition.

   The English troops of Edward II burnt this abbey severely in 1322. The Scottish king Robert I

restored and patronized the abbey. It was again ravaged and burnt in 1385 during the reign of 

Richard II  of England. With the support of Scottish kings the abbey continued functioning till its

final destruction in 1544. James VI (James I of United Kingdom) gave this abbey to the Earl of

Mar for maintenance after  Scottish reformation in 1560. Later it was bought by David Erskin,

 the Earl of Buchan in 1786. When he died in 1829 he was laid to rest in its sacristy ( an apartment 

in a church where sacred utensils and vestments of priests are kept). This property is now managed by 

Historic Scotland, an organization that looks after preservation and proper maintenance of Scottish 

monuments.

James VI

A Book Cupboard

 Though this abbey was not constructed on a grand scale, the pious and austere lives of monks 

rendering service to the community both at mundane and spiritual levels made it a  worthy monument  

to be remembered as a holy place worth visiting and to feel a sense of devotion.

  The Gothic ruins of the abbey are surrounded by yew and cedar trees. Hugh De Moreville, the

  founder of this abbey, later became a novice in his old age and spent the rest of his life in this abbey

 till His death in 1162. The celebrated novelist, Sir Walter Scott, who was the friend of David Erskin

found his final resting place here in the northern transept. The body of another Scottish hero,

 Field Marshal Douglas Haig was interred beside the tomb of Walter Scott in 1928.

 Unlike other abbeys this abbey, in spite of possessing limited funds , survived for a longer

period though it faced destruction so many times by the English forces. This reputation of this

abbey spread far and wide due to the holy writings of Adam Scott who wrote on nature of God

and Biblical Exegesis.  In brief this abbey is a place of quiet contemplation for medieval monks

who led a very austere and disciplined life without craving for any trace of luxury and opulence.

                                    *************************************

     4th February, 2014                                                        Somaseshu Gutala

                            

On Our Way to Scottish Abbeys

The Road  passing through Scottish border

The Cattle on the grassy plains

Eildon Hills

Scott's View Point

    As we proceeded from Edinburgh to Cumbrian Lake District located on Scottish border, we could feel the wild beauty of the High Lands with rocky crags, vast plains , cultivated fields and clumps of wild Shrubs thickly grown all along the route. Human habitation is scarcely visible. Flocks of sheep and herds of cattle were found grazing freely on the grassy plains presenting a view of absolute freedom uninterrupted by human presence. In Scotland the weather is quite windy and very cold when compared with that of the lower south. As we went up the ghat road it became more pronounced. As our car went up the slope of Bemersyde hill, we caught a very fascinating view of the valley of the river Tweed, a gentle stream flowing through green slopes studded with trees and jagged stones. The low-peaked Eildon hills are seen at a short distance. The point from where we had this beautiful scenic view is called “Scott’s View”. The famous Scottish author, Sir Walter Scott, used to stop at this point while he was on his way to his native village, Abbotsford to get a glimpse of the Scottish borders with distant Eildon hills forming a backdrop to the river Tweed streaming through sylvan valley. Every visitor stops here and takes a photo of this picturesque scenery. In 1832 when Scott’s funeral procession went by this way, it was said that the horses drawing the funeral carriage of Sir Walter Scott, stopped here as if to give a chance to their master to have a last glimpse of his favorite spot. Sir Walter Scott was buried in Dryburgh Abbey, just a few kilometers away from this place.

  View of Tweed River

 The Tweed River 

 In Scotland has many castles and abbeys were built which served as bastions of protection to face the onslaught of English monarchs in various ages . When we heard of our visit to Scottish abbeys, we did not show much interest as we thought that they might be churches with traditional rooms and prayer halls. But this visit gave us at least an idea about the faded glory of these magnificent mansions spreading over  many acres of land with all facilities akin to a self-contained township. Most of these abbeys especially in medieval ages, enjoyed royal privileges with huge income collected as tax and tithes from neighboring villages. The abbot was the head of an abbey assisted by monks, Dean and Prior in religious and general administration. An abbey comprised many rooms and halls for various purposes to cater to the needs of monks and lay people.  The abbey serves as a shelter for travelers  when there were no lodging  houses. The monks in the abbey also performed many works of charity like feeding the poor invalids and orphans. They also helped in nursing the destitute and sick persons disabled by age and diseases. As a center of learning the abbey imparted education and training to people who  wish to enter the church and also to those who wish to enter various other worldly careers of their choice. The abbey also preserved works of classical authors and religious writers and engaged scribes to copy or translate the rare manuscripts of eminent writers so as to pass them to posterity.

 The novices and monks had a rigorous schedule at the abbey.They had to get up at 3.00 am 

and spend most of their time in praying and in studying scriptures. They had to work in the garden, cook food and attend to other domestic chores. Their food was very simple only with two dishes and they had to sleep on mattresses without any comfort of couches to lie on.  There was no fireplace to warm their chambers except in kitchen, in infirmary (room for sick patients) and in Calefactory (Warming house). Every abbey was surrounded by a high wall and a ditch as a means of protection against invaders. Thus the abbey served as a shelter not only to spread religious and spiritual awareness but also to render service and provide help and necessary training in various professions  to the people.Generally kings and lords used to give liberal donations for the maintenance and upkeep of this sacred institution.  With the advent of  Reformation  many abbeys fell into disuse and lost their glory and the remaining members had to yield to the new reforms just to protect their abbeys. These ruined structures  seem to convey how the clash of beliefs and national rivalries take a heavy toll in disrupting the harmonious social fabric and the religious institutions as well.
          
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            30th January, 2014                                                                    Somaseshu Gutala         

ALL SOULS' DAY (Poem--II)

 










                                1)            Behold once more the lovely glow

                                        Upon these sleeping marble squares

                                        As veiled fog spreads her curtains slow

                                        A blissful state from worldly cares.

                        2)            In November’s cool wind , one hears

                                       The tread of kith and kin, who pray

                                       Before their near and dear with tears

                                       A solemn state with sighs convey.

                        3)          The preacher reads the Holy Book

                                      Before the sleeping sacred souls

                                      Whose joy in whispering breezes shook

                                      The leaves around as church bell tolls.

                       4)           The tombs fresh-painted shine in light

                                     Amidst heaped roses with fragrance bright

                                     With candles and burning scented joss

                                     Around the graves and many a cross.

                       5)          Their voices mingle with unheard tones

                                    Of ancestors in whispered moans;

                                    A communion betwixt the living and dead

                                    Like earth and heaven in glory wed.

                      6)          With tears and smiles they kneel and bow

                                   With grateful hearts they pray to show

                                   Their earnest love with melting ease

                                   For those who sleep in God with peace.

                    7)           Suffused with choric melodies sweet

                                  Under the jeweled rows of starry lights

                                  The souls do bless their kin with dumb delight

                                  Like gods invoked from heavenly heights.

                    8)          All Souls’ Day – an occasion dear

                                 To feel our dear ancestors near

                                 To feel the golden days of past

                                 The precious memories not yet lost.

                                ***************************

                               ++++++++++++++++++++++++++

                     

                24th January, 2014                                              Somaseshu Gutala  

      

ALL SOULS' DAY (Poem-I)

       













                                                          ALL SOULS' DAY (POEM--I)

                                                 The dark graveyard became a sparkling scene
                                                 Festooned with colored bulbs and flowery sheen
                                                 Whitewashed in moonlight soft, the sepulchers shine
                                                 Sweet memories swell in rapturous hymns divine
                                                 The pastor's voice in solemn notes did sound
                                                 A sigh of relief did heave from every mound:
                                                 The crowded kith and kin with reverence share
                                                 Their moments past with philosophic air
                                                 A humble tribute to their ancestors dead
                                                 Who in God's lap taste spiritual bread;
                                                 An occasion to link ourselves anew
                                                 With cherished faces erased from our view.

                                                       +++++++++++++++++++++++++
                                                        ***************************

            23-12-2013                                                                            SOMASESHU GUTALA


                                              A Brief Note on ALL Souls' Day :


  In every culture and civilization due respect and importance is shown towards ancestors  who passed on their values and characteristics to us  and whose blessings are needed for  the existing generation. In Rome a festival called “Feralia” was held to honor the dead in February year. In Indian tradition a whole fortnight in the month of October is devoted to show reverence and do charitable works in memory of the ancestral souls. During this period marriages and other happy events are not held. People lead a simple and pious life offering libations and rice balls to the manes of their forefathers. In Christian tradition this kind of honoring the ancestors is seen right from the seventh century when Mass was conducted on the day after the Pentecost by the monks in memory of their deceased brethren. The Benedictine monk abbot Odillo (962-1048) in 998 A.D. designated Nov.2 as a day for the monks of Clony to pray for the souls in Purgatory. This custom gradually spread throughout France by the end of the tenth century. This custom was followed by all Catholic monasteries by the end of the thirteen century. The purpose behind this ceremony is to cleanse and make fit the souls in purgatory to enter the abode of heaven. Conventions like ringing of bells, sharing of soul-cakes, lighting candles, pouring holy water and decorating the graves with flowers, and offering prayers are observed to give peace and pray for the blessings of the Lord towards  suffering souls. There is a church yard just beside the road that leads to my residence. The deserted Churchyard in a gloomy corner suddenly ,one day, wore a festive look with bright lamps, bouquets, cakes and neatly dressed people singing songs accompanied by music. Those dismal tombs came alive and seemed to warm up by the pious and devotional atmosphere breathing sweet incense and music.  My heart was very much moved on seeing that grand spectacle which really seemed to me “ the Commemoration of the departed “ beloved souls.

                                          +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

The Song of Halloween

                       

Jack-of-Lantern

Bonfire

A Masked Figure

Figures of witches

     

The Celtic Druid

  

Kids In Halloween Dress

                       1)            Grotesque figures and skeletons parade the way
                                       To trick the devil and make us gay :
                                       The kids in witches' robes and coal-black hues
                                       Threaten the elders to claim their dues:
                                       A merry magic spell , this Halloween
                                       Give the Devil his due with a merry grin !

                       2)             When stars stream all over with crystal sheen
                                       When nights become longer with misty screen
                                       When witches whisper and float with mystic spell
                                       To pluck black weeds from darkest dells
                                       Riding on ravens, cats and flying sticks
                                       To test their powers with cunning tricks

                       3)            Bright orange pumpkins grace at every home
                                      With flaming tongues of fire inside the dome
                                      Bon fires and candles hail the heavenly souls
                                      In chilly weather dark the church bell tolls.
                                      This gloomy eve hallowed by their noble tread
                                      A gush of love towards our dearest dead!

                        4)           The Celtic Druids of ancient lore
                                       Moved with torches from door to door
                                       Shouting in darkness to collect their treats
                                       Chanting dark spells with rhythmic beat
                                       When babes were hid by dames afraid
                                       Of tricky goblins of the country side. 

                        5)           When skull-shaped turnips with fire inside
                                      Guarded each house from the devils espied
                                       When the veil of mystery betwixt the worlds turned thin
                                       For seers to watch the twists of Destiny's spin
                                       When bawling beggars roamed crying for bread
                                       Praying for the souls of the people dead.

                       6)           To save their harvests, beasts and children
                                      From the spells of hags and witches of glen
                                      The Druids prayed to Saman , Lord of Death
                                      To bless their tribe with power, joy and health
                                      Offering beasts and grain in sacrificial fire
                                      Masked figures dancing around the fire.

                       7)           This pagan festival with masked attire
                                     Fraught with sacrificial blood and fire 
                                     Became a holy eve of Christian saints
                                    A time to pray in church to free the taint
                                    And bestow peace on departed dear
                                    By keeping vigil with a conscience clear. 

                       8)         This Hallowmas, no more a time to fear and brood
                                   Of Devils, witches and Jack-of-Lantern shrewd
                                   A time to share and sing of Lord again
                                   Mimicking old beliefs in a merry strain
                                   A friendly round of meeting our near and dear
                                   To spread the message of Love --no more to fear.

                                  +++++++)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))+++++++++++++
                                  
       A Brief Note on Halloween:

    Halloween is celebrated on the evening of October 31st Just when winter sets in. Children masked like spirits and goblins roam from house to house to collect their treats and perform some playful tricks. This festival has had its origin in the pagan tradition of Celts called Samhain's Festival celebrated at the end of the harvest season when nights last longer than daytime. It was the time when the dividing  line between the earthly world and the upper world becomes thin and when the spirits of the dead visit their ancestral homes. It was also the period when evil spirits and witches practice mystic rites in dark nights. To appease them and to prevent their evil influence the Celtic priests known as Druids lit bonfires and offered beasts and grain as sacrificial offering. They beat drums and rang bells and moved from door to door to collect fruits and gifts chanting spells and cursing those who shut their doors and refused to give gifts to them.They masked themselves in grotesque attire to scare away the ghosts and to escape from the wrath of vindictive ancestral spirits. In ancient times even human sacrifice was practiced. To welcome the ancestral souls and show the way, candles and bonfires were lit and food was offered to them.  Samhain was worshipped for giving protection to their beasts, children and harvests. The Druids used to carry a lamp in the hollow of a turnip cut in the shape of a skull in memory of the dead. This lamp is called "Jack-of-Lantern". Behind this there is a story of a vicious youth called Jack who used to trick the devil and later after his death could not enter the hell. The devil gave him a burning coal to guide him on his way to find his place of rest. In U.S. instead of turnips big orange colored pumpkins are used to keep the lamp inside the hollowed out part as a kind of protection to ward off evil spirits. 

    During this time witches wandered stealing children and performed black magic adoring evil spirits. Thus Halloween, a shortened form of "All Hallows Eve " or Holy Souls (ancestors) carried sinister and weird implications. In old English the word "Halga" means "a saint". After the advent of Christianity Pope Gregory IV shifted All Saints Day (13th May, 609 A.D.) to Nov.1st in 835 A.D. just to coincide with this Celtic festival. Nov.1st is called Hallowmas or All Saints' Day. Halloween means the evening before Hallowmas. The Christians in medieval times lit candles and offered food to their ancestral souls at home.In churches bells were tolled and prayers were offered for souls in purgatory. The poor people and beggars used to receive bread known as "soul-Bread" in return for offering prayers to the souls of the ancestors.   

 Nowadays boys dress themselves as ghosts and weird creatures and move from house to house to collect candies,fruits and gift items. Thus Halloween, a pagan festival, observed in memory of the dead and placating the Lord of Death, became a friendly and jovial occasion for spreading the message of love and for elders to express their gratitude and renew their relationship with their ancestors.               
                                      
                                      ( Dedicated to those born on Halloween's Day)
                                         
                Dated: 17th January, 2014                                            Somaseshu Gutala                                     
                                        

My Visit to Sterling Castle

     

Entrance to the castle

Sterling Castle

  In Scotland we find not only wilderness with green grass-draped valleys and streams but also many historic castles, abbeys and mansions of feudal lords. Sterling Castle is well-known not only for its strategic location upon a 250 feet-high rocky crag but also as a place where  so many Scottish monarchs and lords fought bravely to defend this castle from the onslaught of the English armed forces. This castle has a long history dating from 10th and 11th centuries. The name "Sterling" is derived from a Scottish word  which means the place of strife. The first royal castle was built here in 11th century. . It was originally made of wood. But later in 13th  century it was re-built in stone. Most of the surviving structures of this castle were built by the Stewart kings-- James IV, James V, and James VI between 1490 and 1600. A few structures of the 14th century still remain undamaged by frequent assaults during the wars of Scottish independence. The architecture reveals a blend of English, French and German styles of construction.

The Old Building

Chapel Royal

 In 1110 King Alexander I dedicated a chapel at this place. He died in 1124. His successor David I made this castle an important place.William I handed over this castle to Richard I under the treaty of Falaise in 1174, but later the castle was given back by the English king in 1189. William I stayed here till his death in 1214. Alexander III laid out the New Deer Park in 1260s. He died in 1286. The English king Edward I occupied this castle in 1296. Since then nearly eight times wars were fought between the English and Scottish forces to occupy this fort. In 1297 William Wallace fought and won in the battle of Sterling Bridge. But the castle was again captured by the English in 1298. At last Robert Bruce defeated the English army in 1314 and secured Scottish independence.

James IV stayed in a simple old building in 1490s but later extended the western side of the building after he married Margaret, daughter of Henry VII in 1503. James IV (who ruled between 1488 and 1513) undertook the construction of the Great Hall and renovated the Royal Chapel in 1496. Mary, Queen of Scots, as an infant  was crowned here in 1543 by her mother Mary De Guise. James V (who ruled between 1513 and 1542) completed the construction of the Royal Palace by employing French masons. As he died at a very young age, his wife, Mary of Guise, completed the unfinished work. The old building served as offices and accommodation for royal household. Now it has been converted into a museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. James V constructed the royal Palace in a grand manner to stay here along with his newly married French queen. The outer walls of the palace were embellished with beautiful statues of Hellenic gods and goddesses and saints polished with gold. These figures were meant to show his royal splendor, virtues and bravery. Now the figures have become worn out and deprived of their past glory.

The Great Hall

Chapel Royal  (inside view)

              













 The Great Hall or Parliament Hall built by James IV is a very spacious hall with beautiful Renaissance  architecture. In the palace there are two separate apartments for king and queen. In each apartment there is an outer hall, a conference room and a bed chamber with various other rooms called closets for private use.  In queen's conference room one can see fine attractive tapestries called unicorn tapestries. The theme of these beautiful woven designs is the hunting of a unicorn by knights and royal courtiers which symbolize royal power, nobility and chastity combining both pagan and Christian implications.The unicorn, being a heraldic symbol of Scottish royalty indicates power and nobility. In pagan tradition it indicated virtues and it is believed that only a chaste virgin can tame a unicorn. In Biblical tradition the unicorn stands for Jesus Christ who is the savior of mankind. The new tapestries seen in the Queen's royal chamber are closely based on a set of seven tapestries produced in 1500's . They are now kept in the Metropolitan Museum of New York at its Cloister's Museum.

King's Royal Chamber

Sterling Heads on the Ceiling

The Unicorn Tapestry

Queen's Bed Chamber

The Unicorn Tapestry

The Sterling Heads

The ceiling of King's Chamber was originally decorated with a series of carved figures on oak panels known as Sterling Heads. On them figures of Scottish kings, queens, Roman and Greek emperors, legendary heroic figures, Scottish nobles and ladies in fashionable costumes and saints were carved within wreaths of fruits and foliage. They have been removed when the ceiling collapsed in 1777. Out of the fifty-six heads thirty six heads are still found. New heads have been re-crated and brightly painted to deck the ceiling of the royal chamber.Visitors can see the original Sterling Heads in the Sterling Head Gallery. When we entered, we saw some people dressed in various royal and traditional costumes and playing the roles of royal household. In Queen's chamber we saw a fair lady with a bejewel led crown  sitting and knitting the beautiful designs on a tapestry. A court jester was seen entertaining with his witty remarks and gestures.

 This construction of this Castle was inspired by the grand and elaborate models of European
 Renaissance to show the Scottish Emperor's (James V) learning, sophistication, royal splendor along with assertion of his power to rule the Scottish kingdom and to convey the messages of power, prosperity, justice and wisdom.The Scottish Govt. and Historic Scotland deserve all applause for their liberal contribution of spending more than twelve million pounds to renovate and re-create the grandeur of this castle and protect its unique identity and heritage by their untiring efforts and sense of dedication.

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       27-12-2013                                                                          SOMASESHU GUTALA