My Visit to Ambedkar Memorial Park, Lucknow

          

                                                Distant View of the Ambedkar Memorial Park

Rows of elephants

Inside view of the domed structure

                                            Dr. Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Sangrahalay

                            Bronze statue of Dr. Ambedkar in Ambedkar Sthupa

            

Shri Jyoti Rao Phule

                    

Shri Birsa Munda

Dr. Bhimrao Ambedkar

Mayavati

Buddha

Shri Kanshiram

Sant Kabir Das

Bronze Murals 

Lucknow has a rich cultural heritage with many historic monuments, gardens and famous parks. Everywhere one can see greenery with shady trees and spacious parks. nearly there are one hundred parks such as Gautam Buddha park, Dr.Ram Manohar Lohia Park, Janeshwar Mishra Park, Swarna Jayanti Smriti Vihar Park, Chandrasekhar Azad Park etc.  The Nawabs of Awadh beautified this city with many gardens, palaces and mosques. During my short stay there I had an opportunity of visiting the Ambedkar Memorial Park, a public park and memorial in Gomti Nagar. Ms. Mayavati, the former Chief Minister and leader of B.S.P. established this park with many monuments and pillars to represent the democratic ideals of social reformers and noble persons who worked for the upliftment of Dalit people. The foundation stone for this memorial park was laid in 1995. It was called Dr.Bhimrao Udyan. Construction and development work continued up to 2002 and the park was re-named as Dr.Bhimrao Ambedkar Memorial. In 2007 it was further renovated and developed. On April 14, 2008 the park was opened to the public. Finally in 2012 the park was re-named as Bhimrao Ambedkar Memorial. Red sandstone from Rajasthan was used for this megalithic construction. Nearly seven billion rupees were spent to build this lofty monument which has become the pride and glorious symbol of this city.

 Unlike other parks, here one does not find much greenery and gigantic trees. So we don’t find any shelter if it suddenly rains. It would be better if the authorities have set up some shelters for visitors to protect themselves from intense heat of summer and rainy showers. You will see a very spacious land of 107 acres with a broad stretch of road flanked by sixty-two stone elephants on either side at the main entrance. This spot is called “Pratibimb Sthal”. Priority is given to statues of elephants as the elephant is the election symbol of Mayavati’s Bahujan Samaj Party and also of  Ambedkar’s Republican Party. Nearly three thousand elephant figures are seen in this grand construction.  In the center of the park there is a massive musical fountain. It stands as a symbol of Dalit empowerment and dignity.

 On the left side of the park one can see a huge building called Ambedkar Sthupa located on a mound. Inside the Sthupa one can see a big bronze statue of Ambedkar seated in a chair. At the base of the statue a message in Hindi is engraved which means “My struggle of life is my only message.” Many statues are seen depicting the life of Ambedkar. In Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Sangrahalay spread over 2.5 acres, one can see a monument with two domes. Under one building one can see the statues of eminent social reformers like Jyothi Rao Phule, Shri Narayana Guru, Dr.Ambedkar, Kanshi Ramji and Rajarshi Chatrapati Shahuji Maharaj . In the second building the marble statues of Gautam Buddha, Sant Kabir Das, Sant Ravi Das, Guru Ghasi Das and Sri Birsa Munda are seen. This monument is an objective representation of equality, humanity and social justice.

 In Drashya Sthal one can see an eighty- foot tall pyramid structure with water flowing from its top. From here one can have a panoramic view of the whole park with its monuments and pillars spread around. In Dr.Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Gallery spread over four acres one can see many bronze murals. It would better serve the purpose of spreading the ideals and message of Ambedkar and other leaders if a gift shop is set up there where one can buy books, photos and souvenirs that contain the teachings and messages of these noble personalities. This park is open from 11.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m. on all days except on Monday. This park was under the supervision of the Lucknow Development Authority.

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     28th November, 2019                                Somaseshu Gutala

My Visit to Chota Imambara ( Imambara Hussainabad Mubarak), Lucknow

The metal figure at the entrance

                           

                                                         Entrance Gate to Chota Imambara

                               

Inside View of the Central Hall

Various Tazias in the hall

   

                                                  Beautiful carvings and calligraphy on pillars and walls

Chota Imambara - Inside View

The beautiful View of Chandliers

Chota Imambara-- front view with flowing stream and garden

Tazias on the platform in the main hall

                                                          The throne of Mohd. Ali Shah

                      

                   

              

                                                                      Crown of Mohd. Ali Shah

Mausoleum of Zinat Asiya, Nawab's daughter

Treasury facing Zinat Asiya's Mosque

Just two kms away from Bada Imambara on the west side, Chota Imambara is seen which is admired for its artistic beauty as Palace of Lights. It is located on Husanabad Road in Daulaganj in Lucknow. This was built by Mohd.Ali Shah, the Nawab of Awadh in 1838 as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims to celebrate Muharram and other festivals. Azim-ullah-Khan, Superintendent of ordnance and Buildings, supervised the construction of this gold-plated building with many large and smaller domes with ribbed design. The Nawab in order to provide employment to workers during the severe drought period undertook the construction of this monument.

 The significance of the holy five is symbolized here by five main doorways. There are two halls and a platform (Shehnasheen) on which the Zarih(the replica of the protective grill that is kept over the grave of Imam Hussain at Karbala, Iraq) is seen. The main hall or Azhakhana is a large green and white bordered hall with a gilded dome decorated with chandeliers imported from Belgium, golden edged mirrors and crystal glass lamp stands. On the south of the main hall is the main platform with arches where the banners and flags of the small army of Imam Hussain are seen. A number of Tazias made of silver, ivory and sandalwood are kept on the main platform or Shahnasheen. There is also a big Tazia that is made of wax and tinsel paper kept in the main hall. 

The tombs of Nawab Mohd. Alishah and his mother are seen in the central hall. Their bodies are buried below the floor in the basement of the central hall. In the central hall the royal throne, the red crown of the king and the silver Mimbar or pulpit on which the orator is seated when he addresses audience are also seen. On the walls and pillars of the hall, Quran verses are written in Islamic calligraphy in the shape of a tiger, a horse and a bird, fixed in wooden frames. An antique Persian clock and a glass fish tank from Japan are other curious objects found in this spacious hall.

 The way to this Imambara is embellished with a flowing stream flowing through the center of the garden. Water for fountains and other water bodies is channelized from Gomti River. This building constructed in Indo-Islamic and Persian style has a Charbagh pattern—a single stream running through the center of the garden.

 There are two triple-arched gateways on the east and west as entrances. In between them is the main gate with a heavy door. . The three-storied main entrance gate is seen with a bronze fish fixed at the top of the arched gateway. This bronze fish works as a weather vane one finds the sacred five emblems mounted atop the main gate to signify the holy five members of Prophet Mohammad’s family. Opposite the main gate is Naubat Khana where large drums were beaten to announce the hours of the day. Two metal Grecian figures in bronze connected to spikes on the top of the gate act as lightning conductors.

 On the left side of the main building is seen a mosque with two minarets , a replica of Taj Mahal, where the tombs of Nawab’s daughter, Zinat Asiya, his son and her husband along with the tomb of Nawab’s consort are found. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside the mosque. On the other side a similar structure facing the mausoleum was built to maintain architectural symmetry and balance. This building was used as treasury. Outside the Imambara is a watchtower called Satkhanda or tower of seven stories. But only four stories were seen as the king passed away and the construction work was stopped. This tower was built between 1837 and 1842. On the model of Qutub Minar and the tower of Pisa this tower was constructed in Indo-Islamic style and was meant for lunar observation.

Mohd.Ali Shah and his queen Malka Afaq Jahan deposited 26 lakhs with East India Company to form Hussianabad Endowment Trust to look after the religious buildings they had built and for observance of Muharrum and other connected functions. To the left of the main gate, Shahi Imam (Royal bath) with a complicated system of drainage is seen which supplies hot water to the gigantic bath tub. This building has been renovated in later times. Tickets purchased at Bada Imambara gives one access to Chota Imambara and Picture Gallery. Alexis Soltykoff, the Russian prince, who visited this place in 1841, described this monument as the “Kremlin of India.”Really as someone said, this monument is “ small in name, but big in wonder.” There are many worth seeing monuments nearby such as Jama Masjid, Clock Tower and Rumi Dawaja. The opening hours of this Imambara are from 8.00 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.           

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  13th November, 2019                                         Somaseshu Gutala

MY VISIT TO BADA IMAMBARA ( ASAFI IMAMBARA), LUCKNOW

             

Roomi Gate (Turkish Gate)

                       

                           

Bada Imamabara

                     

Central Hall

Bada Imambara Dome

                             

View of Upper Chambers

       

Chinese hall

Place where Tazias are kept

Bhul Bhulaiya (Maze)

The tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula

                  

Shahi Baoli (StepWell)

                    

Hussainabad Clock Tower

           

Lucknow was ruled by Awadh Nawabs for nearly sixteen decades. Here we still find the glorious tradition and heritage of Nawabs in the form of great mansions, palaces, mosques and gardens. Bada Imambara is the star attraction and most popular historic monument in Lucknow. Every day nearly three thousand people visit this beautiful mansion with spacious courtyards, carvings and massive arches. The word Imambara means the residence of Imam or a Muslim priest who leads prayers in a mosque. So it is a prayer hall where religious congregations are held through the month of Muharram and on other important occasions by Shia Muslims. In cities like Cairo, Aleppo and Baghdad this type of prayer hall is seen as an annexe to the main Mosque.

  In 1722 the Mughal emperor Muhummad Shah made Mohd. Amin Masawi or Sadat Ali Khan I as Governor of Awadh. Sadat was the grandson of a rich trader from Khorasan in Iran who migrated to India. Thus the rule of Awadh Nawabs (a native Governor appointed by Mughal emperors) began. In 1775 the fourth Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula ascended the throne. He shifted the capital from Faizabad to Lucknow.

During his rule there was a severe famine almost for one decade. To provide employment to starving people Asaf-ud-Daula undertook the construction of this Imambara which was started in 1784 and completed in 1798. Nearly twenty thousand people were employed to complete this huge mansion. The Nawab spent nearly one crore rupees for this construction. Every year he spent four to five lakhs to beautify and maintain this building. He selected an architect from Delhi, Kifayitullah, who used his talent and skills to construct this building in ornamental Mughal style.

The western entrance called “Roomi Gate or Turkish Gate” is the west-facing 59 feet high entrance gate with three arches done with lavish decorations.  The  arches have the royal insignia of dual fish carved on them. It was built in ancient Awadhi style and resembles the gateway at Istanbule, Turkey, once the capital of the Roman Byzantine Empire. The word “Roomi” is the changed version of the word “Rome”. On the top of the three-storied Darwaja, a small octagonal place called “Chattri or Umbrella” is seen looking over both sides of the gate. A staircase leads up to it. This place was used for vigilance or for ligting up the gate. Four minarets are seen at four corners.  The 67-foot tall Husainabad clock tower adjacent to Roomi gate was constructed by Nawab Nasir-ud-Din Haider in 1881 to mark the arrival of Sir George Couper, the first Lieutenant Governor of the United Provinces of Awadh. The eastern entrance gate was destroyed by the British in 1858 when this building was converted to a military fort.

The roof of Imambara was made from rice husk and the roof has been put together with interlocking bricks without any beam or girder. No wood or metal has been used in this building. This is a unique building with arched entrances without having any pillars for support. Unlike the Mughals who used red stone, the Nawabs of Lucknow used limestone which is delicate and can be carved with designs of creepers, various flowers and intricate designs. This building has three halls—China hall with decorative domes, Persian hall with the graves of Nawab’s family and Tazias (replicas of the tombs) of Imam Hussain and Hasan who sacrificed their lives at Karbala in 680 A.D. and the Kharbooza Hall the domed ceiling of which is shaped like a watermelon.  The Persian Hall is the most spacious hall measuring 170x55x15 feet without any supporting columns. In the center of large vaulted Persian hall the graves of Asf-Ud-Daula, his wife and the architect, Khifayatullah are seen.

 Just above the central hall one can see eight chambers with different heights permitting the space above to be re-constructed as a labyrinth or maze (called Bhul Bhulaiya) with interconnected one thousand passage ways through 489 identical doorways. This maze supports the weight of the building. Our guide told us that the royal ladies used to come through secret underground passage to attend the prayers conducted in the central hall. People say that there are many secret passages leading to Gomti River and even up to Agra and Allahabad. It would be better to enter the maze with the help of a guide as there is a risk of losing one’s way in the labyrinth with so many passages and doors.

  On the left side of this building there is a step well of Pre-Nawabi Era with five stories called ‘Shahi Baoli” built in Indo-Islamic style. It is a water reservoir used for supplying water to people. This reservoir is connected to Gomti River. Only the topmost two stories of the step well are seen and the three stories are under water. On the right side of the building there is Asifi Masjid where only Muslims are permitted. This monument is open from 6.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. One should go in decent dress to visit this sacred religious place. The entry fee is rs.50/- per person and Rs.500/- for NRIs. It would be better to take the help of a guide. We bought a ticket from U.P. Tourism office at 400/- per person. They will provide the vehicle along with the guid e. We need not pay the entrance and parking fee. Of course only historic monuments are included in the schedule and not temples or parks. This monument is really a worth seeing construction with many unique features and is an outstanding specimen of the Indo-Mughal architecture.

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   1st November, 2019                                  Somaseshu Gutala