Wednesday, September 25, 2013

At Grasmere

Dove Cottage





Dove Cottage












Grasmere is a small village located amidst green sloping plains and many lakes. The distance from Windermere to Grassmere is just ten miles. The road wound through an array of dense greenery and spacious pastures where flocks of sheep and herds of cattle were grazing. The houses looked very simple and small with stone-built  construction and gabled roofs. No busy crowds and no rushing vehicles. We found Scottish wilderness and sylvan surroundings here also as this place was just a few miles away from the Scottish border. At first we made our way to St.Oswald's Church where we could see the family graves of Wordsworth. None was seen inside the church as we reached there a little bit early. A bundle of books and pamphlets were seen neatly stacked in rows. I thought about the renowned poet who used to frequent this place and who planted eight yew trees in the churchyard premises. In the shade of one of these yew trees we saw the the tombs of the poet and his wife, Mary Hutchinson. Nearby we saw the graves of his sister, Dorothy, and his children, Dora,William,Thomas and Catherine along with Mary's sister, Sarah Hutchinson. This church is named after St. Oswald, a Northumbrian King, of 7th century A.D., who had preached on this site. Every year on the first Saturday nearest to St.Oswald's Day(5th August), the floor of the church was covered with rushes(Leaves), a custom started when the floor of the church was made of earth. In 1841 the floor was covered with stone slabs.The church built in 13th century appeared strong and solemn with serene atmosphere and greenery.The poet selected a beautiful spot for his final resting place, I thought.



Inner view of St.Oswald Church
















The Family Graves of William Wordsworth

 Next we went to "Dove Cottage" the first dwelling place of William Wordsworth from 1799 to 1808. The cottage was located in the scenic surroundings with a spacious backyard. The custodian was an aged lady who spoke eloquently about Wordsworth and his family. When I introduced my self as a student of literature, she felt very much excited and complimented me about my knowledge of the great poet though I spoke very little about his poetry. After a period of disillusionment, William Wordsworth left London and selected this place where he found domestic bliss and much inspiration to compose many of his famous lyrics and poems like"Daffodils", "Ode to Duty", "Intimations of Immortality"and 'When my heart leaps Up" etc. Originally this cottage used to be an inn called "The Dove and the Olive" started in 1617 and later was closed in 1793. William Wordsworth took it on rent from John Benson of Grasmere paying five pounds a year.Dorothy wrote her "The Grasmere Journal", a diary during her stay here. She began writing this journal in May 1800 and kept her record of the journal almost for three years just to preserve the happy and memorable events for her brother to read and enjoy. Earlier she wrote Alfoxden Journal during 1797-98 when her brother and she were near the residence of Coleridge in Somerset. Now a part of that journal is available. In these journals she vividly described places and people they happened to meet along with realistic descriptions of natural scenes and objects. Many of her topics later became material for inspiring the poet to write his famous poems like "The Daffodils" and "The Leech Gatherer" etc.

    There are four rooms on the ground floor.--a drawing and dining  room, a bed room, a kitchen and a store room covered  with oak panels and stone slabs. In the upstairs there were four rooms -- one as Wordsworth's study room, and the remaining as bed rooms. Water had to be carried over from a nearby well. William and Dorothy took keen interest in tending the garden in the backyard without disturbing their wild appearance. There was a shaded shelter on the mound where Wordsworth used to sit with sage-like contemplation and  compose poetry. Dorothy wrote her well-known journal " Grasmere Journal"(1897) during her stay here. Many friends of the poet like S.T.Coleridge, De Quincey, Walter Scott, Charles Lamb and Mary Lamb used to come and spend their time in the company of the learned seer and votary of Nature. Wordsworth's first three children, John(1803), Dora(1804) and Thomas(1806) were born here. This cottage though pretty, could not accommodate so many persons. So Wordsworth moved first to Allan Bank in 1808 but did not like it much. In 1813 he shifted his family to "Rydal Mount", his final place of residence from 1813 to 1859, until  Mary Hutchinson's death. Thomas De Quincey, the famous author of "Confessions of an opium-eater" occupied this cottage after Wordsworth left this place.and stayed here till 1835. In 1890  The Wordsworth Trust under  the supervision of Reverend Stopford Brooke, bought this cottage for 650 pounds. In Dove's Cottage we can see the portraits of Wordsworth, Coleridge and Dorothy.



Tuesday, September 24, 2013

A Visit to Lake District




Scene of sheep on the pasture
Way to Windermere














     I was told that most people in England would like to spend their holidays in the countryside enjoying country pleasures in stead of idling their time in busy cities crowded with malls and big restaurants. Of course there is a change in the attitude of modern youth who like more noise, crowded places, intoxicating luxuries and sophisticated city life styles. We planned to visit Wordsworth's famous residence "Dove Cottage" and  'Rydal Mount", both located in thebeautiful valley of Grassmere in the Lake District of Cumberland region. We have taken ourlodgings in the nearby town "Windermere" just ten miles before our destination. This town hasits own tourist attractions like rock climbing, cruising, fabulous gardens and woodlands.



Windermere Town







  We went by car through beautiful valleys surrounded by low-topped hills filled with dense 
growth of trees. An entire world of green with no human habitation is seen all along the way
here and there a small farm house nestled in the middle of sloping pastures where white
fluffy sheep were grazing to their belly's content without caring to look at us--so totally 
absorbed in their gastronomic orgies! The road before was so smooth that we had not felt 
any sense of tiredness at all during our long drive from Edinburgh in the hot afternoon heat.
In some places there were steep descending paths with curved bends. We drove through 
dense woods with small bridges here and there on mountain streams. The entrance to 
Windermere was through narrow paths flanked by plain stone-built houses without any
showy coat of plaster or whitewash. They looked quite rustic and simple in structure without
any beautification of color or design.The cluster of chimneys over tiled roofs seemed to be 
the common feature of every English home.In Windermere, obviously a tourist place in 
Lake District, most of the householders provide lodging and breakfast facilities to visitors.
This would fetch them a sizable income during summer and even up to October, the begin-
ning of autumn.  

 Our room was very compact with a low roof reminding me the room in upstairs at Statford-
upon-Avon.The difference is only in having modern comforts like gas, electricity and shower
Our host , a tall English gentleman in seventies, welcomed us with professional warmth and
assured us that all things were easily accessible in that town. He managed eight rooms 
attending to the needs of guests assisted now and then by his aged wife. We could not but
appreciate his diligent nature without showing any signs of vexation or boredom. He 
profusely thanked me when I gifted him a slender volume of my poems. He kept bundles of 
pamphlets on a book shelf to help the tourists with requisite information about the Lake District.



   












  Though Windermere is a small town, it has all facilities to help tourists. There are many res- taurants offering different varieties of meals like Italian, Chinese, Thai, Indian, English and the country type delicacies like Cornish pastries and Ginger bread. We enjoyed the river  cruise on the Windermere Lake, one of the largest lakes in England. As we sailed round, we  saw the distant mansions, small cottages and small boats moored near the bank. Some young couples were rowing with gusto and waving at others with vibrant mirth. Some people were  ready with fishing  rods and nets to go on with their sport of fishing in the waters.Some couples were enjoying their coffee while their children were shouting with innocent bliss, munching candies and sweets.


 
Beatrice Potter's Museum


Peter Rabbit













  In Windermere we also visited some shops where one could find books and tourist guides
providing a wealth of information on various lakes and neighbouring country houses. There
were two or three cine theaters showing not so much popular movies. The theaters without
much decoration almost looked like houses. Another place worth visiting is Beatrice Potter's
House. Beatrice Potter(1866-1943) was an eminent short story writer of children's stories 
 who became famous with her book"The Tale of Peter Rabbit Series"in 1902. She published
twenty-three books introducing many characters  like Peter Rabbit, squirrels, mice and other tiny creatures with bushy tails. As a fervent student of Natural history she tried to improve the methods  in breeding of Herdwick sheep of the Cumberland region. As a conservationist 
she donated four thousand acres of land in the Lake District to the National Trust. As we  
have not much time,we were not able to visit this museum. So I have not much to say except
that the pretty doll house is picturesque and amusing especially to children.

                                          *****************************
     September 24, 2013.                                                             Somaseshu Gutala                                                                                             

 
 
 

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

A Visit to Milton's Cottage at Chalfont St.Giles




  
Milton's Bust In the Backyard Garden

Milton's Cottage at Chalfont St.Giles










The Bust of John Milton In the window



John Milton (1608--1673)


  Next to Shakespeare, John Milton won world-wide acclaim as the greatest poet. His   epic poem " Paradise Lost" is the product of his voluminous learning and total dedication and made England assert her own  place in the realm of epic poetry on par with that of Greece and Italy. One would  not find words to appreciate the fortitude and immense sense of dedication of Milton  who had taken up this  most arduous  task after he became totally blind and had been in the most trying circumstances deprived of every means of support and motivation..

 I was fortunate enough to see the only existing cottage where Milton had spent a few  months and where  he undertook the completion of his famous epic. The cottage was located in the interior part of a typical English village called Chalfont St. Giles in Buckingham shire. From Sunbury-on-Thames, we traveled through a main way with leafy branches arching above, which gave a panoramic view through dark woods just like our erstwhile journey through woods to Studley Castle(a big hotel) a few days ago.


 At last we located our destination when we saw a wooden signboard "Milton's Cottage". When we gently knocked at the door, the custodian. a tall old gentleman, welcomed us with a beaming smile on  his face. There were a few visitors inside. He asked us to look at the signatures of the royal family  members who had visited the cottage and extended their support. Queen Victoria donated twenty pounds as Jubilee Fund in 1887. In 1934 Elizabeth, the Queen-Mother, visited this cottage and made a public appeal for the restoration of the cottage. After restoration, this cottage was opened by the Duke of Glouscester. Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth, paid a visit on 14th July, 1987 to commemorate the Centenary Celebrations of the Milton Cottage Trust.


 In the cottage we saw a small room at the entrance leading to a big room which serves as a drawing room and as dining room as well. A little to the left there was a kitchen. Behind the drawing room there was a study room where Milton used to sit and dictate poetry to his daughters.There was a high-backed wooden chair called Milton's chair used by the great poet during his stay here. In the middle of the room we saw a voluminous 17th century old edition of Milton's poems and writings. On the wall we saw a framed copy of the Royal Proclamation of  Charles II ordering Milton's pamphlets to be burnt in public on the charge of his anti-Royalist views. There was another old document neatly framed wherein we found the signatures and thumb impressions of the people who supported the Republican cause and later most of whom were tried, imprisoned or exiled and were deprived of properties. A receipt signed by Milton's last wife Elizabeth Mynshull , was seen in the frame hung from the wall. Though these papers may seem to be common,  they are rare collections which take us back to those tumultuous times and remind us how people in defence of principles sacrificed their valuable belongings and staked even their precious lives. Milton had served as Latin Secretary to the Republican Leader, Oliver Cromwell, and was later imprisoned for his rebellious  writings against the king. Just because of his old age and blind condition his life was spared when his contemporary and friend Andrew Marvell intervened and obtained an order of remission from the Parliament.

 The bust of Milton was seen in the window along with portraits of the poet done by various artist The books written by contemporary Quakers of the neighborhood were also kept in another room along with other collections. Milton's Prose works and political pamphlets were also displayed there. The autobiography of Charles Ellwood, Milton's Latin disciple and a Quaker by faith,was another important document . In that book Charles Ellwood narrated how after going through the manuscript of the book"Paradise Lost"(Published in 1667), he asked Milton what the author had to say about the Paradise found. This query  made Milton compose another small epic "Paradise Regained"(published in 1671).

Milton's cottage was opened to the public as a reading room in 1887. Later it was converted as a museum to protect the precious relics and documents connected with the life of the great poet. In the backyard there was a spacious garden with different varieties of plants,herbs and flowers,  the names of which were mentioned by the poet in his lyrics and poems.Under a shady arbor, a  marble bust of the epic poet was erected as if to gratify the poetic soul with the fresh vernal gifts of Nature glorified by him in his beautiful lyrics like"Lallegro", "Il Penseroso" and "Comus".At one   place there is a water fountain surrounded by bushes. The lines from Lycidas (The pastoral elegy    written by  Milton to mourn the death of hid friend Edward King) "weep no more shepherds, for thy  gentle comrade Lycidas is not dead" were labelled there, indirectly suggesting the eternal life of the  immortal poet, Milton, "The organ voice of England."

The custodian kept a few books and some pamphlets giving information about Milton's life. On enquiry he informed us that John Milton, who spent most part of his life near Bunhill Fields in London, came to Chalfont St.Giles in 1665 just to escape from the dread of plague raging in that year. His Latin student,Thomas Ellwood , suggested this cottage which was owned by Colonel George Fleetwood. Having been deprived of the support of his Republican friends and his position as Latin Secretary to Oliver Cromwell, the poet devoted himself entirely to complete his epic "Paradise Lost" which he had earlier planned to write as a drama. His stay at this place also incidentally became a cause for taking up the Paradise Regained" a sequel to his magnum Opus "Paradise Lost".

Thus ended our memorable trip to Milton's cottage which gave us some idea about the surroundings and living conditions of the poet who fought bravely against all odds to accomplish his poetic mission as a champion of freedom and stood by his principles both in politics and in religion as well, with his unshakable faith in divine providence.
  

 Sep.11th 2013.                                                                              Somaseshu Gutala

      

Monday, September 2, 2013

Two Star Attractions of London

London River Cruise
A View of Thames

                    

London Eye
               
 


       



                                                          Inside view of the Capsule

  To get a bird's eye view of London, nothing is more convenient and comfortable than to sit in the   London Eye--a very appropriate name given to the 443 feet high observation giant wheel on the sou   bank of London erected in 2000 as a part of London's Millennium Celebrations. It has thirty-two cages or capsules with glass walls on four sides and each accommodating nearly twenty people It moves so slowly (the wheel moves at ten inches per second i.e 9 Km per hour) that one does not get any nervous feeling of being rotated at a fast speed. It takes nearly thirty minutes to view different locations from a level  such as the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, St.Paul's Cathedral,Shell Tower, Tower  Bridge and Waterloo Station.Many people took photos of the distant view  of London with tall towers, churches, museums and gardens and office buildings.One can watch the city within a range of 25 miles all directions. We were also shown a 4-D documentary film viewing London from the wheel along with some city amusements performed by various ethnic groups before we proceeded to board the wheel.

 Another unforgettable experience is the London River Cruise from Westminster to London Station
 to and  fro.The Cruise Boat was very neat with comfortable seats. A guide gave a running commentary on the various sites and monuments seen on both sides of the banks of the river Thames as we were sailing along.We saw the various bridges, cathedrals, towers and well-known office buildings.She also gave some brief information about Southwark area where Shakespeare's Globe Theater was seen with some old taverns and  inns, the favourite haunts of the poet in those times. She also cracked some jokes but she spoke too  fast for us to understand her humorous remarks. We rounded of Our weekend trip to London with a  refreshing cup of coffee and exotic snacks.

                                                                                                     
  September 3rd, 2013                                                                             Somaseshu Gutala